[TR] Mt. Jefferson - South Ridge Solo- 8/29/2008

[PVD]

Mt. Jefferson’s reputation as the toughest summit in the Oregon Cascades has kept me away from this mountain for years.

I usually climb alone, so reports of nightmarish rockfall, treacherous ice traverses, and a crumbly 400-foot technical summit pinnacle pushed this climb outside my comfort zone. I certainly did not envision climbing Jefferson without a partner or protection.

Mt. Jefferson became a bit more accessible in my mind, though, after reading a couple of CC trip reports for the peak’s easiest route, the South Ridge.

Climbing this line to the base of the pinnacle sounded simple and looked straightforward on my map. From there, I thought, the summit would be within my reach if the rock at the top was solid Class 3/4 rather than sketchy 5.1 and if snow conditions were good for the “Terrible Traverse” across the west face to the pinnacle’s north side.

I decided I would climb the south ridge to take a close-up look at the traverse. I figured there was a strong chance I would be turned back by poor conditions or the supposedly huge exposure. As it turned out, ideal conditions made the climb far easier and more mellow than I anticipated.

I backpacked about 8 miles from the Woodpecker Ridge trailhead to Shale Lake late Thursday (8/28).

 

Jefferson from the lake:

 

 

I left my camp around 6 a.m. and headed northeast past Shale Lake between the south and southwest ridges. I followed a climber’s path through stands of mountain hemlock and subalpine meadow, then climbed boulders and scree up to the south ridge below its convergence with the southwest ridge.

The view south on the way up was very cool. The landforms and peaks from Jefferson to The Sisters sure are beautiful:

 

 

After gaining the South Ridge, about 2 miles from the lake, I took a break next to a small stream draining a snowfield to drink and fill my water bottle. Running water seems to be pretty scarce on this route in summer.

I continued over looser, more tedious terrain up the south ridge toward the steep, rocky spine that leads to the “Red Saddle.” I climbed directly up this ridge (easy Class 2/3) to an overlook with an unnerving view of Jefferson’s two pinnacles and the “Terrible Traverse.” I knew the trek across the west face was exposed, but the near-vertical gradient of the snowfield surprised me.

 

The Terrible Traverse:

 

 

 

Summit pinnacles:

 

 

My climb to the saddle took about 3.5 hours, meaning it was only 9:45 and the sun had not yet hit the summit’s west side. I would have plenty of time to stare down the route and check out the snowfield. I hoped the snow would be hard enough that crampons would provide security, yet soft enough to allow deep ice axe penetration for an effective self-belay.

As it turned out, it didn’t matter.

As I walked the way path toward the traverse, I realized there was a moat between snow and rock just wide enough to permit passage. Apparently, I had picked the perfect time to solo this route. The moat appeared to extend the full length of the traverse.

I carefully made my way across the moat below the summit towers. I felt exposed at only two points: a small snow step that required crampons and ice axe, and a short but somewhat awkward 4th Class step along the moat -- which proved to be the crux of the climb for me.

The traverse went quickly -- and with no expenditure of adrenaline. As I crossed the shoulder and headed north, I could not believe my good fortune.

On the north side, I followed a climber’s path southwest toward the top. My route up the summit block also was easier than expected -- little loose rock, no ice, no Class 5. Instead, I found dry, solid rock and large ledges. Most of my climbs over the last couple of years have been in the Olympics, where the rock quality is pretty poor. So my perception of what constitutes “good” rock may be somewhat skewed. Still, Jefferson’s pinnacle seemed very solid.

On the line I chose, the lower section was mostly Class 3 with some Class 4 near the top. A couple of exposed steps required extra caution, but overall it was a surprisingly mellow scramble.

The weather was perfect, and haze from recent fires obscured views only a little. It was beautiful. I love Mt. Jefferson’s position in the transition zone between wet forests and high desert terrain.

 

Hood from summit:

 

 

Down-climbing was relatively easy, with one or two somewhat awkward steps, and the traverse back to the Red Saddle was straightforward. I ate lunch near the saddle before heading down to the South Ridge. I arrived at my camp around 2:30, packed up my gear, and hiked out.

This was a great climb -- thanks in large part to the ideal conditions. Besides my obvious good fortune with the moat, I heard no rockfall during my traverse and summit block scramble. I also was able to avoid most of the scree-slogging on the way up by hiking on boulders, and the route-finding from Shale Lake was easy.

 

 

Edited September 10, 2008 by PVD

[fettster]

Nice work. Do you have any pictures of the moat?

[PVD]

Fettster:

 

Thanks.

I do have a couple of shots of the moat.

The first shot is looking back down toward the saddle. The second photo is the awkward step/crux.

 

 

 

Edited September 10, 2008 by PVD

[dougd]

Note rocks embedded in moat.

 

I was up there Sunday morning 'bout 10:30am and observed considerable rockfall down this route.

 

Ultimately, I wasn't feeling lucky enough to complete this part of the climb at that time...

 

d