Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Sol

first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008

Recommended Posts

Nice line, and nice work by all involved!

 

Way to follow through :)

 

It is a game where you snooze....you loose!

Can't see where anyone lost anything though...amazing line that took a lot of effort.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
tom red-pointed, while placing all gear on lead, the first free ascent of the roof crack on what has been called The Tempest. He called it Full Tilt, and it truly seems to be one of the unique and proud crack lines found anywhere.

 

Congratulations on a very impressive send. It's great to hear about Washington alpine routes that can stack up to the best Yosemite and Squamish have to offer.

 

You say gear, but wasn't the pitch roof, which takes solid cams all the way, bolted from top to bottom? So maybe you mean quickdraws were placed on bolts on lead (gear was just quickdraws)?

 

When is it ok to bolt cracks that take good pro, particularly on previously established lines? When is it not ok? I suspect this saga has more chapters to come. I look forward to hearing when someone, perhaps a hot local, goes Eric Decaria on it and sends without clipping the bolts. If Didier Berthod were here he'd do it and then chop the bolts and keep them as souvenirs. But I digress. Congrats on an awesome effort and send.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no bolts on roof crack, or anywhere else except belays, i believe.

 

a correction has been sent my way: someone lead out first, fell, left gear in place, then tom fired the pitch.

they continued to the top of the climb, rp'ing the rest of the pitches as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
no bolts on roof crack, or anywhere else except belays, i believe.

 

a correction has been sent my way: someone lead out first, fell, left gear in place, then tom fired the pitch.

they continued to the top of the climb, rp'ing the rest of the pitches as well.

 

So the bolts were removed? That sounds like a good thing. Still raises interesting questions. Bolt to rehearse and then remove bolts to send on gear?

 

Awesome send. I'm sure many of us would love to see pics or video if such is available. Hint hint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rad, I'm not sure that "bolts on the roof pitch" were ever more than speculation, at least I never heard of any confirmed sightings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have a feeling that tom won't chime in here himself, rather abhoring the nature of on-line rabble-fests; i, on the other hand, simply adore them, so i'll fill in some gaps as best as possible.

 

from my understanding, one bolt was added to the roof, near the lip. it was i believe rather quickly deemed unnecessary, and subsequently removed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This thread has it all…..

 

 

  • A nice FA
  • Sour grapes and controversy when someone tries to free the route.
  • Bolt
  • Posts modified after being questioned and the “Do not show as edited “ box checked
  • A midnight meeting at the base of base of the route to iron out differences.
  • A renaming controversy

 

A few years from now Tom will have great memories of a fun summer project and high school kids will be calling it a trade route. I was out this past weekend slogging up a 5.7 slab drilling bolts and thinking how routine climbing has become. It's nice to see even second hand passion and excitement over climbing a route.

 

Nice job Tom!

 

:brew:

 

Edited by DCramer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gotta say though...renaming the route is a bit of a slap to Blake and Sol who made the best and most important ascent of the route. Go back and read their TR about firing this line ground up in inclement weather...the name was born from the original experiance, one that should not be forgotten, aid or no aid. That said, I refuse to care about this issue anymore, I just wanna go climb the thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Blake and Sol...made the best and most important ascent of the route.

 

 

? a strange assertion that i simply cannot understand.

 

honestly, i have a hard time categorizing any rock climb as "important".

 

i would add that only within the very narrow and arbitrary parameters of any sport (which climbing certainly is an example of) can said sport be deemed "important".

 

and then to ascertain one's climb as "best"? pure tomfoolery.

 

 

Edited by Kimmo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I refuse to care about this issue anymore, I just wanna go climb the thing.

 

Now you can Jens! The new status...

 

open.JPG

 

Someone go red-point that thing!

 

Or better yet, climb any of the myriad of new routes up there instead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Jens, I'm sorry you had to drink that swill. If I'd meant that for you guys I would have brought something better. I had single malt! That's what I was trying to get you guys to come down for. The Old E was a bribe to keep Seth up there for another day if necessary. Good thing it wasn't!

 

Best? Most important? I certainly make no such claim. I just wanted to send it more than anything else I've ever tried and I'm glad I did. This name thing is in no way intended as a slag to those guys. "The Tempest Wall" is just so serious sounding and I'm just not that serious. Craig came up with Full Tilt way back and we've been calling it that ever since. It just fit for us and I think anyone who tries to free the roof will get it. The name that is.

 

It's not at all uncommon for a route to have two names: the original aid name and one for the free version. Both born from completely different but no less relevant experiences. I've been up there when it lives up to the name those guys called it. Respect. Although I have to admit I never really got the "Wall" part. It's only five pitches, two of them short. Was it supposed to be taken tung in cheek? I forgot to ask.

 

The Bolt. I placed a bolt at the lip, not because it was needed for gear or out of some need to "work" the route. The idea was to keep the rope from falling into the crack after you pull over the lip, risking flipped cams and or getting the rope stuck in the crack. Shortly after, I removed it and filled in the hole. The route is better for it. If anyone is going up there to try and free it, get the beta on what not to do once you pull the lip. No big deal.

 

As for style, I have been placing the cams on lead right from the get go. The only reason you don't do that on every subsequent burn is that it takes forever to back clean them each time. Seperate Reality- same thing. I one hung it multiple times placing the cams falling after the last one was shoved in and clipped. Part of the problem(beyond just being to weak) is, by necessity, that's the first burn of the day with no warm up. Game on. I'm totally happy with having done it gear in place and pretty confident that it would not have made a difference gear or no gear. When it finally went down I felt like I could have climbed it twice back to back. I think it was 90% mental for me the whole time. My second attempt was no worse then my tenth.

 

Blake's topo is pretty accurate as far as the grades go. The little approach crack up to the roof feels more like 10a to me but I've done it more times than I'm willing to admit. Same as the first pitch. It's cleaning up to be easier than first thought.

 

The forth and fifth pitches should be run together for a full value 60m classic. Nothing harder then 10+/11- but pretty stout for the grade.

 

The roof is an anomaly and difficult to grade. Obviously harder then Separate Reality or the flat part of Desert Gold, both 11d. I don't know where Blake got the idea that it's 12d. I definitely don't think so. My lame excuse is that "I've got big hands". The crux for me comes out near the lip in the form of a series of very tight(insert lame excuse) hand jams. If reds are your thing it could be 12a.

 

I'm happy to step aside and let the hordes of high schoolers decide.

 

Sheesh, to many words. I'm going to try to figure out this picture thing now.

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Even though I lack the skill or drive to climb this route, I've decided to rename it "The Tempest Wall" because Blake and Sol had the balls to head up the thing in the first place, in shitty weather, and freed everything except the roof pitch, IMMSMC. Lynn Hill didn't rename The Nose did she? You free one pitch, in less than alpine style, and you rename the whole climb?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The roof is an anomaly and difficult to grade. Obviously harder then Separate Reality or the flat part of Desert Gold, both 11d. I don't know where Blake got the idea that it's 12d. I definitely don't think so. My lame excuse is that "I've got big hands". The crux for me comes out near the lip in the form of a series of very tight(insert lame excuse) hand jams. If reds are your thing it could be 12a.

 

You seem to life roof cracks :) Have you tried Zombie Roof (12d/13a) is Squamish? that would give you another climb to compare the tempest roof to....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Even though I lack the skill or drive to climb this route, I've decided to rename it "The Tempest Wall" because Blake and Sol had the balls to head up the thing in the first place, in shitty weather, and freed everything except the roof pitch, IMMSMC. Lynn Hill didn't rename The Nose did she? You free one pitch, in less than alpine style, and you rename the whole climb?

 

I won't comment on the controversy other than to say that this quote is about the worst case of armchair dickishness I've ever read. The guy went out and climbed some hard shit that the vast majority of us will never be able to free and in doing so completed a major goal of his. Is that not what this is all about?

 

Nice job Tom! :brew:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

der, need help posting pictures...

 

body work, brain not so good...

 

someone pm me?

Edited by motamota

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×