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bigbowsky

Supercrack Leavenworth

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Just curious if anyone knows anything about the first ascent of Supercrack on Midnight Rock in Leavenworth? Does anyone know of any legit repeats, or how Timson protected it without large cams? I am betting he sent it on large hex's but would love to hear the story from someone who knows? Any credible info send me a P.M. would love to chat about it....

MS22951.jpg

 

MS23038.jpg

 

MS23096.jpg

Edited by bigbowsky

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There is only one SuperCrack© and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P

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there are several SuperCracks© that are famous...

 

Eight #3's????? WTF... Try like 4 or so...

:rolleyes:

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There is only one SuperCrack© and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P

 

I agree with Rumr. You can do it with 3 golds....just start walking them up. You can place a blue and one red.....

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Why are you wasting your time talking about that super lame pile? I'm sure it was super back in the 80's.

 

There is only one SuperCrack© and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P

 

I agree with Rumr. You can do it with 3 golds....just start walking them up. You can place a blue and one red.....

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The grade is kinda a hard one to put a number and letter on. It climbs like a splitter in Indian Creek and favors those who can get fist jams and arm bars the last 10 feet or so. I was able to get fists almost through the entire crux but they were incredibly strenous. I would bet for a smaller person it would be 5.13. For my body it felt probably about 5.12a/b?

 

About the details, I tried it once ground up last year with a friend and it kicked my ass. When I got to the top the anchor was complete bull $%#@. I found an r.p. crack that was super parrellel and a place for my last number 5 camalot. Considering that my partner was almost surely going to have to take I loaded the crack with small gear, jumped in a hole below and gave him a body belay to the anchor. Needless to say it was terrifying! Soooo I went back last week with two friends and drilled a two bolt anchor at the top We rapped in and I looked at it on TR for a second and then sent the pitch first go. With the anchor there now hopefully it will get more traffic. You can get to the climb by traversing in at the base of rotc past the dagoba system up to the bolt anchor. A must hit if you are heading up to midnight rock. Also you go by the base of plumbline (which needs a wire bursh desperately) on the way to the SC anchor.

 

 

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Burly looking crack. Looks like something that would definitely support a bad crack habit. How much farther does it go past where you are in the second picture?

 

I'll ask Pat about it the next time I talk to him....

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The rack in camalots:

 

1 .5

2 .75

2 1

1 2

2 3

1 old 3.5

2 4

 

The number 5 was for the onsight go but it dosent fit. Fingeys to 2 no. 4s are the rack!

 

The size thing will FOR SURE MATTER! I was up there with a (VERY STRONG) climber and he ran out of jams and then was forced to lie it back (desperado for sure) at the end. The pics don't show the crux... it is the last 10 feet of climbing the crack goes into an overhanging flake that just dosen't have anything to hold onto... My friend off the top of his head figured maybe 12c for him or harder???

 

 

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thanks for the info. timson has big hands with fat fingers, so i guess that helped him for sure.

 

and you're right, it would be interesting to know what he did to protect it back in '79. must have been hexes because friends maxed out at #4 -- roughly equivalent to a #3 camalot, so it was either hexes or way run out!

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thanks for the info. timson has big hands with fat fingers, so i guess that helped him for sure.

 

and you're right, it would be interesting to know what he did to protect it back in '79. must have been hexes because friends maxed out at #4 -- roughly equivalent to a #3 camalot, so it was either hexes or way run out!

 

 

I remember hearing that toward the top Timson was "well above" his last piece and his arms were getting tired. He had pretty strong arms.

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Tried this route a few years back with Rumr and got torched but it felt "doable". Nice job on a classic route. Hope this thing gets more ascents.

 

Moronbros: for your info the "supercrcack" which you speak of I beleive was originally named Supercrack Luxuryliner of the Desert

 

 

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