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powderhound

first ascent [TR] Sawtooths - FA: Lawdogs' Lament, Deliverance, Royalty Ridge 8/24/2008

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Trip: Sawtooths - FA: Lawdogs' Lament III 5.10- A1-2

 

Date: 8/24/2008

 

Trip Report:

 

Baron_big_overview.jpg

baron in all its glory

 

 

SOuth_East_Face_of_Baron_Spire_Topo.jpg

We climbed Lawdogs' Lament and Deliverance this August and climber Tallboys last summer.

Pitch 1

p1lawdog.jpg

65m 5.9-

Squeeze and go, run the rope out to the best belay place.

 

 

Pitch:2 55m 5.10- Head up the chimney/offwidth and then step out left to a slab to gain a RFC. Take this up under an offwidth on the left side of the chimney. Traverse out to some airy moves and head straight up finger and hands five feet left of the offwidth. Belay just below the Splitter RFC.

 

Pitch 3

p3lawdog.jpg

 

90ft 53.9- All the Red and Gold BD's you wanna give it.

Belay on a ledge

 

 

Pitch 4

p4lawdog.jpg

Take the far left line off the ledge and wiggle up the squeeze to a finger crack in a flake up to an off hands crack.

5.9- 35m

 

Pitch 5: go around to the west face of the summit block and start up the bolt ladder.

This pitch took three days and was put up in 1949. We finally put a summit register on the top.

 

 

This thing is kinda crazy. One of the last aid bolts is a metal dole sticking six inches out of the hole.

theladder.jpg

 

bolt2.jpg

 

bolt4.jpg

 

thebolts1.jpg

 

Rappel: You can now rappel down the east face with a 70M rope and some low 5th class downclimbing.

 

It's are belief that this is the best moderate route in this area. All of the pitch's are on bomber rock and provide an excellent route to the top with all the pitch's climbing between 5.9- and 5.10-.

 

Gear: Double set through #3 BD and 1 #4 BD.

 

Edited by powderhound

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:rocken::rawk::rocken:

 

:moondance: :moondance: :moondance:

:brew::toad::brew::toad::)... :brew:

 

Way to go Bryan, can't wait to hit up the sawtooths.

Definitely going next year! Get those TR's up QUICK! :)...

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Are you the guys from NY that I met on your way in and our way out of Barron? We were the two just finishing a 12 day backback through the Sawtooths.

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Bryan and Trevor: yet again awesome job! I think everyone is ignoring this TR so far due to the lack of pics...

 

So wish I could have made the trek out and joined you guys.

 

Keep living the dream! :tup:

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