mountainsloth Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Trip: Mt. Triumph - NE ridge Date: 8/23/2008 Trip Report: My buddy Salz and I took a trip to summit Mt. Triumph via the NE ridge. It took us all of Friday to get in there, what a slog, but man was it worth it. All I can say is, Fun Fun Fun! We decided to bivy on the white slab below the ridge, however I recommend you climb the first pitch, the sleeping will be much better. We simul-climbed quite a bit, pitching out just a few leads. We had a slight variation on the last pitch before the 4th class scrambling at the top. If you head left about 1/3 of the way up the pitch into a lighter band of rock you will find a nice set of fist to hand sized cracks on pretty solid rock with some fun stemming moves (5.8ish). Careful, as there are some loose blocks scattered around and atop the pitch. We were a bit worried about bringing only one rope, as becky says you need two ropes to rappel, however someone has made some nice rap anchors along the ridge allowing you to rap with just one 60 m rope and a little bit of exposed down climbing here and there. From bottom, to top, to bottom it took us 7 1/2 hours (many many rappels). We spend the rest of the summit day trying to get as far out as possible. Sunday we strolled the last 5.5 miles out. Fantastic climb, well worth the hard day in and out! here a link to some of the pics since I am computer illiterate and don't know how to URL. http://pics.ericlondon.com/thumbnails.php?album=65 Gear Notes: Cams to 4inches, stoppers and long runners. All anchors set. crampons for the glacier. 60m rope worked, 70m would eliminate down climbing gaps between some rappel anchors. Approach Notes: Thorton Lakes trail. cut left around the first lake, cross the outlet stream, skirt 2nd lake on right and climb ravine to obvious notch. Traverse glacier to obvious notch in NE ridge of Triumph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 cheers! :brew: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 good climb! That is a pretty long approach. When Steph and I did it we took 3 days and it was nice. Putting pics into your trip report is easy if you follow the directions given in the FAQ section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moronbros Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 I've been seeing a lot of Triumph TRs lately and I know a few people that have climbed it recently. I noticed that nobody is using the South Face rap route. There's a seriously fun (and way faster) steep rappel route off the south side. It avoids having to deal with rope-eaters on low angle terrain of the ridge. nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 I did this route last year and was able to rappel the ridge with a single 30 meter rope. Except the crux, the ridge was fast to downclimb and rappel. The crux needed some cord stuffed behind some little chockstones to get past it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpineyeti Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 SPS and I did this route a few years ago and were amazed at how little glacier was left. How was the glacier looking this year? There is supposed to be a way to traverse back south along the ridge, dumping you at the standard bivy col. We didn't try it, but would have cut off a lot of time getting down. We used a single 60 m and had no issue. Made it back to the car same day we summitted, but I would call it more of a two and half day trip. Good job guys! This was probably one of my favorite climbs to date! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 I've been seeing a lot of Triumph TRs lately and I know a few people that have climbed it recently. I noticed that nobody is using the South Face rap route. There's a seriously fun (and way faster) steep rappel route off the south side. It avoids having to deal with rope-eaters on low angle terrain of the ridge. nice job! Yea, we thought about rapping south, but once again, beckey said 2 ropes and we had one. we decided to go with the sure thing rapping the NE ridge since we saw all we needed for anchors on the way up and we were in no real rush. No issues with getting ropes stuck luckily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 (edited) SPS and I did this route a few years ago and were amazed at how little glacier was left. How was the glacier looking this year? There is supposed to be a way to traverse back south along the ridge, dumping you at the standard bivy col. We didn't try it, but would have cut off a lot of time getting down. We used a single 60 m and had no issue. Made it back to the car same day we summitted, but I would call it more of a two and half day trip. Good job guys! This was probably one of my favorite climbs to date! http://pics.ericlondon.com/displayimage.php?album=65&pos=3 Not a whole lot there, but enough to still be a glacier. This was easily one of my favorite climbs, right up there with the west ridge of forbidden. Edited September 9, 2008 by mountainsloth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 SPS and I did this route a few years ago and were amazed at how little glacier was left. How was the glacier looking this year? There is supposed to be a way to traverse back south along the ridge, dumping you at the standard bivy col. We didn't try it, but would have cut off a lot of time getting down. We used a single 60 m and had no issue. Made it back to the car same day we summitted, but I would call it more of a two and half day trip. Good job guys! This was probably one of my favorite climbs to date! http://pics.ericlondon.com/displayimage.php?album=65&pos=3 Not a whole lot there, but enough to still be a glacier. This was easily one of my favorite climbs, right up there with the west ridge of forbidden. Word on the street is that Forbidden is over-rated..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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