Braydon Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Trip: Yak Peak - Yak Check FAA(maybe) Date: 8/15/2008 Trip Report: FAA: First Adultless Ascent A little late I know. Alright so Marc kept on raving about how awesome this route (pitch 7 in particular) is so I was really eager to get on it. Marc's dad dropped us off at the trailhead at about 9 or so and we began hiking up to the base. We simuled the first two pitches and I began to lead the third pitch. I have small hands so it was more like off hands for me than perfect hand jams. Anyways, the pitch was a little runout just because it is the same size crack and being the runout wimp that I am, I let Marc have a go. He cruised it. Anyways up a little bit more and we reached evil pitch 6. Since we had alpine draws this time we were able to reduce rope drag a little. We had lunch before pitch 6 and discovered Marc's dad had somehow eaten some of his food. I gave him some of mine and we began going up. Pitch 7, is what gives routes a classic status. It starts out with a bomber underclimg traversing to the left which turns into a few feet of liebacking. You then walk across the flake you just underclimged and start up another one. You then pull an interesting roof and move up some slabby friction stuff. Pitch 8 was a neat little pitch as well having a hollow flake you traverse over looking 1500 feet down. We then went up a few more pitches until we were at the crux which Marc led. I tried a little at the crux but was tired and ended up french-freeing . We went up the 4th class slab and topped out after about 9 hours. A little slow but we took our time a had a little more relaxed pace. Anyways, we started the hike down and were making pretty good time until darkness came (no headlamps, just cellphones which didn't really help). We stumbled down nearly escaping injury a few times mistaking bushes for boulders and hopping onto them carelessly. We made it to the car to discover a surprisingly happy mom despite our late arrival. We got mcdonalds and then passed out. Despite being a little hard to protect and runout (for my standards) and a little loose at times this is all in all a great route which I'll probably return to soon (hopefully with less fear of runouts). Marc will post some pics later. Gear Notes: We had a double set of cams and a set of nuts but you probably could have gotten away with less if you wanted to. Approach Notes: Horrible. Extremely remote, at least a 30 minutes from the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Those are NOT tilted!!! Thats how it really is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Nice pics marc... looks like ya had fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Strong work guys! Good to see that not all the youths of today spend their weekends playing video games. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 this is real. awesome dudes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Looks like the square dancing lessons are working! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 Way to go guys! I'll have to get up there one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Looks like the square dancing lessons are working! I definitely couldn't have climbed that without square dancing lessons ... no way man! Yeah, this route is super fun.... i could go do it again any day.... btw, we only had doubles of cams in the finger and thin hand sizes.... in the hand and fist size we only had a couple cams... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottPick Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Hey Marc so ya got you with your US buddy. Good on ya! Looks like a great time and by the way great climbing photos! Really impressed. Keep it up and soon you'll be shooting magazine quality climbing shots! See you later. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 Cool, lads! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamsbud Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 The next Chouinard and Beckey??? Maybe hmmmm think about it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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