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50 Classic Climbs of N.A.


olyclimber

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Alaska and the Yukon

 

Mount Saint Elias Abruzzi Ridge

Mount Fairweather Carpe Ridge

Mount Hunter West Ridge

Mount McKinley Cassin Ridge

Moose's Tooth West Ridge

Mount Huntington West Face

Mount Logan Hummingbird Ridge

Middle Triple Peak East Buttress

 

Western Canada

 

Mount Sir Donald Northwest Arete

Bugaboo Spire East Ridge

South Howser Tower West Buttress

Mount Robson Wishbone Arete

Mount Edith Cavell North Face

Mount Alberta Japanese Route

Mount Temple East Ridge

Mount Waddington South Face

Devil's Thumb East Ridge

Lotus Flower Tower

 

The Pacific Northwest

 

Mount Rainier Liberty Ridge

Forbidden Peak West Ridge

Mount Shuksan Price Glacier

Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress

Mount Stuart North Ridge

Liberty Bell Mountain Liberty Crack

 

Wyoming

Devil's Tower Durrance Route

Grand Teton North Ridge

Grand Teton Direct Exum Ridge

Grand Teton North Face

Mount Moran Direct South Buttress

Pingora Northeast Face

Wolf's Head East Ridge

 

Colorado

 

Crestone Needle Ellingwood Ledges

Hallett Peak Northcutt-Carter Route

Petit Grepon South Face

Longs Peak The Diamond

 

The Southwest

Shiprock

Castleton Tower Kor-Ingalls Route

The Titan

 

California

The Royal Arches

Lost Arrow Spire

Sentinel Rock Steck-Salathe Route

Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress

Half Dome Northwest Face

El Capitan Nose Route

El Capitan Salathe Wall

Mount Whitney East Face

Fairview Dome North Face

Clyde Minaret Southeast Face

Charlotte Dome South Face

Lover's Leap Traveler Buttress

 

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Dont bother... it is worthless as a guidebook.

 

 

i don't see it as a guide book, jut a recommended list of climbs and stories to go along with them. It looks like this is basically what Kearney copied with "Classic Climbs of the Northwest", another book I really enjoyed. It has route info, but I certainly wouldn't use it to prepare for a climb (other than to get psyched about it). i think it is worth the bother if you like books about climbing.

 

Cool about Powells having it from time to time. Chessler charges about the same as the amazon link above (and up to 1000 bucks), but with some guys writing their names in it.

 

 

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i don't see it as a guide book, jut a recommended list of climbs and stories to go along with them. It looks like this is basically what Kearney copied with "Classic Climbs of the Northwest", another book I really enjoyed.

 

One thing that makes Alan Kearney's book unique (and that he felt was important in writing it) is that he climbed every route listed in his book, so you can count on a consistent degree of accuracy. That's not true of most "selected climbs" books. (Disclaimer: Alan is a friend.)

 

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Nice tie in to the town where I picked up the book! They have a nice dedicated climbing section there, even some consignments.

 

My friend who I was visiting there is friends with J. Whittaker (who makes his home there) and told him about our modest jaunt up to Mt. Stone this past weekend in the lightening storm, and Jim related some nasty tales about people getting zapped and killed or with alum. water bottles getting fused together, etc.

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i don't see it as a guide book, jut a recommended list of climbs and stories to go along with them. It looks like this is basically what Kearney copied with "Classic Climbs of the Northwest", another book I really enjoyed.

 

One thing that makes Alan Kearney's book unique (and that he felt was important in writing it) is that he climbed every route listed in his book, so you can count on a consistent degree of accuracy. That's not true of most "selected climbs" books. (Disclaimer: Alan is a friend.)

 

yes, apologies to Mr. Kearney for accidentally insinuating that his book might not contain accurate climbing information! I love that book, I've read it several times. Certainly can't say I've read many guidebooks cover to cover (I usually just read a route here or a route there, so maybe i've read several...but Kearney's book you can read like a collection of short stories).

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I'm not surprised nolse has such a bad attitude about the book. :tdown:

 

Is it the best guidebook ever... no

 

What it does do is provide some information and a little history about climbing in North America. I've found it good as a starting point any time I go into a new region. It helps you get to know an area and inspires you to look around when you get there for other cool routes.

 

I've done a bunch of em, and then I return to do other climbs I see while doing those in the book.

 

Looking at my book I've done 28 out of the list.

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I have a torn and tattered copy that I've thumbed through for years. It's a wonderful book! I just climbed Wolf's Head a couple weeks ago and thought it was an excellent route well worthy of classic status. What's interesting is the new Cirque guidebook author (Bechtel) goes out of his way to criticize the route brushing it off as and saying it attributes to a "myopic" view of Wolf's Head. :rolleyes:

 

Likewise I never saw the book as a guide... just good stories and great photos of places I'd love to visit!

 

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As some have said 50 Crowded Climbs can be a blessing or a bane. But either way it is a classic in that it gives people a pointer to at least one climb in particular area. I have done 20+ of the routes, a few friends are well into the 30+ routes. Of those on the list my highlights both came in 2000 when that spring I did Castleton with Allen Steck who was 79 at the time and then two months later did the Cassin. My most recent was Slesse. All good fun.

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Bugaboo Spire East Ridge

Mount Rainier Liberty Ridge

Forbidden Peak West Ridge

Mount Stuart North Ridge

Grand Teton Direct Exum Ridge

The Royal Arches

 

Is what I have done from the list, but not with the intention of climbing the climbs because they are on the list. All of them I have climbed because they are brillant looking lines and quite accessible.

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