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[TR] Valhalla Range - 8 Days in Valhalla 8/3/2008


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Trip: Valhalla Range - 8 Days in Valhalla

 

Date: 8/3/2008

 

Trip Report:

Jesse, Graham and I spent 8 days based out of Mulvey Lake climbing and scrambling. we took a lot of gear, hoping to do a couple hard routes, but ended up climbing mostly easier stuff after some encounters with vegetated cracks on Gladsheim and recent rockfall scars on Asgard's south face.

 

We climbed:

Nisleheim east ridge, 4 pitches, 5.7

Asgard SE ridge, 3 pitches, 5.7

Gladsheim SW Face, variant to the Brown/Marcus, 5 pitches to 5.8 plus 400m of scrambling

Midgard, north and south ridges, 3rd class

Nott to Dag traverse, much scrambling and one rappel, rappel pitch TRed at 5.9 on return using rope left through anchor

 

We got stormed on the last few days, otherwise, a great week.

 

Snaffles are voracious at the bivi below Gmli S ridge, not so bad down by the lakes if care is taken to hang food.

 

Plenty of goats and other critters around. 8 flavours of snafflehound are in situ:

-bushy-tailed woodrat

-marmot

-Columbia ground squirrel

-pika

-regular red squirrel

-shrew

-mouse

-chipmunk

 

Bring a saw. We were trapped behind a fallen tree on the way out and had to chop through it with ice axes, a very slow and tedious job that blistered up my city-slicker keyboard-fondling hands but good.

 

Some pics:

 

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Gear Notes:

Full rack, most pieces not needed for the routes we did but we took'em anyways.

 

Approach Notes:

Bannock Burn road is 2wd. Bring a saw!

4 hrs to hike through Nisleheim-Gimli col and down to lakes. Bring crampons and ice axe for descent from col.

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1. Nisleheim.

 

2. It looks like the better option would be to go the other way, from Wedge over to Gladsheim. You could drop down the headwall and climb the SE or SW ridge routes on Wedge to start. The north sides of the crest, out of Gwillim Creek, are glaciated/rubble and offer easier traversing than the ridge crest option.

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