Pwelco Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 (edited) Trip: Mt Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier Route Date: 8/03/2008 Trip Report: OK jfreeburg Here ya go from Paul something or other A long awaited trip to Mt Jefferson finally falls into place, partner gets sick at the bivy site so is not heading up, bummer! I decide to go solo due to another group of 3 heading up the glacier 2 from Seattle and 1 from Corvallis I will soon get to know as Mike, Jim and Dave (Hope memory serves). Anyway perfect snow conditions and no wind set up for a great day of climbing!! Crevasses seem to be mostly exposed so travel was good on the glacier. The first schrund was easily skirted around the left or as I found a step across about 3-4ft of void and ice climb out about 8ft finding solid tool placements got the blood flowing thats for sure. The second schrund was a different matter in that the left was all the way over to a rock face so off to the right the group ahead of me headed to find about a 6ft wide snow patch at about 60-65 degrees. Unfortunately this gets the sun first thing on the Jefferson Park Glacier route so the snow was somewhat soft in most places with some nice rock hand holds along the way. A tool and alpine axe worked good here for myself. Gaining the Col between Mohler Tooth and Smith rock we got the trade from soft snow to loose rock. From here there is a knife edge ridge leads you over to join the North ridge route. Although very exposed on both sides this class 5 climbing has great hand holds and mostly good rock in comparison to the Pinnacle. Once on the North Ridge its an easy walk over to the base of the Pinnacle. At the base of the Pinnacle you have a choice to go straight up or as the guide books say traverse right about 50 yards. The other group headed up and I traversed after putting my crampons back on. In the end it would have been easier to go up without the traverse. On the summit we traded pictures and yes Jim left his camera he announced later in the parking lot, none of us was willing to go back for it as returning via the white water glacier was a long way and now the 4 of us have seen every side of Jefferson getting back to camp. 3 raps off the West face of the Pinnacle (had to cut my rope due to a snag and not worth risking your hind end) put us back to the traverse over to the Red Saddle and on our merry (looooonnnng) way back to camp and then out to the rigs where these nice gents treated us to a beer where my bud was waiting for me. Am having some trouble adding pics so here is a link (I think) to mine on Flikr, sorry guys but I didn't get many of ya'll but have not uploaded all of them yet. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29389759@N02/ Cheers ya'll and on to another adventure!! Pwelco Gear Notes: Rope for rap, one nut (left) for a short rap, 2 ice tools and an alpine axe (could have used only one tool but would have had to climb around the first schrund) Approach Notes: Some snow on the PCT led to some wandering around looking for the trail but pretty easy to follow yet Edited August 12, 2008 by Pwelco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 nice! both the mtn and route sure look different now that all these summer months have passed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 pwelco, Nice job and thanks for posting the pics. Mt and Jeff Park glacier looks much different than when I was looking at it last Nov for sure. Wonder what the weather was like this weekend out there. your Pics taken last week? d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwelco Posted August 11, 2008 Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 Yup we went on Saturday 8-02 and climbed Sunday 8-03. Bet this weekend was good also. Looking forward to maybe hitting 3 Finger in a couple weeks for a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 damn. Had a permit for pamilia lake and passed cuz weather looked like it was gonna be fucked up. I still don't like those freezing levels as high as they are. Oh well, had a good weekend anyway. Out at the Beacon had a brief reunion w/an old friend. Jim O... Good luck on 3f jack d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreeburg Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Pwelco something or other - thanks for the TR. Twas a great trip. I'll be happy to tip anyone who brings back that camera. It's not worth too much but has some great photos I'd appreciate. The weather couldn't have been any better for the climb - it was drizzly Friday night and even early Saturday morning but burned off by Saturday afternoon. Thanks Pwelco for letting us share ropes. Hope your wife believes that you really do need a new rope. As long as the high schrund hangs together, the route should stay in good shape for at least a few more weeks. Once that last bridge falls, it will require at least 15-20 feet of vertical ice. Not as much rock fall as I would have thought. Doesn't mean I'd be taking off my brain bucket though. Happy climbing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 jfreeburg, I hope to be up there soon and if I find your cam, you'll get it back no charge. Well, maybe a beer... d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwvdc Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Sorry for some bad news, we went up Whitewater glacier this weekend to S. Ridge, Red Ledges and scrambled up the N gully. Sorry we didn't find a camera on the summit. We went up saturday to camp in the mist, windy night, and clear the next morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc313 Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Sooooooo Kooooooool!!!!!!!! It's to bad it's not a big moumtain, love looking at it from the top of Hood,but I would still love to climb it!!!Norm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreeburg Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 thanks for looking. perhaps it fell out somewhere else on the way down. i could have sworn it was on the summit. there is at least a six pack waiting for whoever finds it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckouba Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 ...It's to bad it's not a big mountain... WTF? Please explain. Thx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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