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[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner 7/30/2008


kevbone

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I agree with you about it being mostly phychological pro in that section. The flakes to the left had some nice placements but the booming sounds when you slap the flakes is a little unnerving so.... The choss is quickly forgotten however when you reach the crack and start jamming, sweet sweet jams. I tried not to pull down or out on any of the flakes, but as my partner said that he was sure there were heavier guys then me that had been thru there, so should be good to go. and i was.

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The bolt stud is off to the left. The variaton JH was referring too is straight up and has only been top roped. The variation Bill was referring too it up and right then back left up the ramp/corner. I see about 5 variations leaving the bolted anchor on pitch one.

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Those variations really need to be looked at.....the butt hole pitch suck donkey dicks and there is much better rock going straight up, it will need bolts due to no gear. I suppose who ever gets to it first gets it......
The butt hole pitch is a bit heady down lower but certainly not in the suck category, I love that pitch...
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Those variations really need to be looked at.....the butt hole pitch suck donkey dicks and there is much better rock going straight up, it will need bolts due to no gear. I suppose who ever gets to it first gets it......

 

gets what?

 

you must be trolling kevin because i love that pitch! if anything the route as a whole has far too many bolts; please no more! best 5.9 multi at beacon.

 

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i'd still say dastardly is the best 5.9 pitch on beacon though.

 

oh, gotcha kevin.

 

pink, oh pink - when are you coming for a lap up the mighty beacon?

 

denalidave: did i meet you up on big ledge a month or so ago? you were saying you could see your house almost from up there?

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Yes I really like that 2nd pitch on YW. Pulling into that finger crack is fun, if only it could be longer. I was there on Sunday and made an effort to look for the rotten rock/bad pro on that pitch and I'm not seeing it. I do recall a sort of hallow sounding flake way back in there, but the gear (blue or green Alien) is on solid rock and the under-cling flake right below the finger crack feels good.

 

It would be fun to try a more direct line on YW that goes straight up from the belay on pitch two. Right now it looks dirty and maybe some small pro for nuts would do it. Anyone tried this or thought about it? always seems a bit odd to go way left than right on this pitch.

-Nate

 

 

 

 

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i'd still say dastardly is the best 5.9 pitch on beacon though.

 

I'm going to second that, Dod's into Dastardly is a great way to spend a day at Beacon and my favorite way up to the hikers trail. Pitch for pitch, I can't really think of any other route out there that has as much clean rock going Free for all to-Dods-Dastardly.

 

-Nate

 

 

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i'd still say dastardly is the best 5.9 pitch on beacon though.

 

oh, gotcha kevin.

 

pink, oh pink - when are you coming for a lap up the mighty beacon?

 

denalidave: did i meet you up on big ledge a month or so ago? you were saying you could see your house almost from up there?

 

 

fractured ribs and to much work, i quit climbing ;)

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Pitch for pitch, I can't really think of any other route out there that has as much clean rock going Free for all to-Dods-Dastardly.

 

That's my latest laptrack these days, good solid yardage to the railing. Anyone up for a full moon lap on it this evening (Sunset: 8:20pm / Moonrise: 7:02pm)?

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Had to settle for a roped solo lap up YW - cool temps, solid breeze, and lit up to about half daylight - perfect. Topped it off with breakfast at Cake 'n Steak - perfect as well.

 

Also, kudos to Shane's new roomate Kellie who did her first-ever go at rock climbing by doing the SE Corner by moonlight as well.

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Had to settle for a roped solo lap up YW - cool temps, solid breeze, and lit up to about half daylight - perfect. Topped it off with breakfast at Cake 'n Steak - perfect as well.

 

Also, kudos to Shane's new roomate Kellie who did her first-ever go at rock climbing by doing the SE Corner by moonlight as well.

Sweet, I thought someone might be having a late finish epic in the dark when I heard them yelling. Wish I could have done YW last night w/you JH. Maybe next full moon if it is still warm enough?
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Hmmm, Dave, must have been someone else as Shane, Kellie, and Sam moved pretty smoothly with a minimum of yelling. And they started after me and a while after you guys had left. Hopefully the next full moon will be as good the last one and this one which should still be good for the next few nights.

 

It really is spectacular and the main problem climbing is that, once you let your eyes adjust to the darkness, the moon is then too damn bright and creating deep, deep black shadows when it's more in your face than on the rock. Then you either have to remember where holds are, feel for them, or use your headlamp for long enough to sort things out.

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