stevetimetravlr Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 I agree with you about it being mostly phychological pro in that section. The flakes to the left had some nice placements but the booming sounds when you slap the flakes is a little unnerving so.... The choss is quickly forgotten however when you reach the crack and start jamming, sweet sweet jams. I tried not to pull down or out on any of the flakes, but as my partner said that he was sure there were heavier guys then me that had been thru there, so should be good to go. and i was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 I didn't notice the direct variation straight up from the anchors, but will check it out next time. There is a bolt stud and it just needs hanger put on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 The bolt stud is off to the left. The variaton JH was referring too is straight up and has only been top roped. The variation Bill was referring too it up and right then back left up the ramp/corner. I see about 5 variations leaving the bolted anchor on pitch one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Cool mon, I will check it out today up and right but might end up doing the b-hole variation again since i don't really know where I'm going up there. I remember looking far left and it looks all lichen covered and does not look like anybody has been out there much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 Those variations really need to be looked at.....the butt hole pitch suck donkey dicks and there is much better rock going straight up, it will need bolts due to no gear. I suppose who ever gets to it first gets it...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Those variations really need to be looked at.....the butt hole pitch suck donkey dicks and there is much better rock going straight up, it will need bolts due to no gear. I suppose who ever gets to it first gets it...... The butt hole pitch is a bit heady down lower but certainly not in the suck category, I love that pitch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 i agree with dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Those variations really need to be looked at.....the butt hole pitch suck donkey dicks and there is much better rock going straight up, it will need bolts due to no gear. I suppose who ever gets to it first gets it...... Â gets what? Â you must be trolling kevin because i love that pitch! if anything the route as a whole has far too many bolts; please no more! best 5.9 multi at beacon. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 no way, fourth pitch is at least 5.11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 Â gets what? Â Â The FFA on a new variation on YW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 i'd still say dastardly is the best 5.9 pitch on beacon though. Â oh, gotcha kevin. Â pink, oh pink - when are you coming for a lap up the mighty beacon? Â denalidave: did i meet you up on big ledge a month or so ago? you were saying you could see your house almost from up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Yes I really like that 2nd pitch on YW. Pulling into that finger crack is fun, if only it could be longer. I was there on Sunday and made an effort to look for the rotten rock/bad pro on that pitch and I'm not seeing it. I do recall a sort of hallow sounding flake way back in there, but the gear (blue or green Alien) is on solid rock and the under-cling flake right below the finger crack feels good.  It would be fun to try a more direct line on YW that goes straight up from the belay on pitch two. Right now it looks dirty and maybe some small pro for nuts would do it. Anyone tried this or thought about it? always seems a bit odd to go way left than right on this pitch. -Nate     Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 It would be fun to try a more direct line on YW that goes straight up from the belay on pitch two. Anyone tried this or thought about it? Â Â Â Did you not read the rest of the thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 i'd still say dastardly is the best 5.9 pitch on beacon though. I'm going to second that, Dod's into Dastardly is a great way to spend a day at Beacon and my favorite way up to the hikers trail. Pitch for pitch, I can't really think of any other route out there that has as much clean rock going Free for all to-Dods-Dastardly.  -Nate   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 i'd still say dastardly is the best 5.9 pitch on beacon though. oh, gotcha kevin.  pink, oh pink - when are you coming for a lap up the mighty beacon?  denalidave: did i meet you up on big ledge a month or so ago? you were saying you could see your house almost from up there?   fractured ribs and to much work, i quit climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Fractured ribs...??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 Fractured ribs...??? Â Andrew fell off his house trying to break in.....lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Pitch for pitch, I can't really think of any other route out there that has as much clean rock going Free for all to-Dods-Dastardly. Â That's my latest laptrack these days, good solid yardage to the railing. Anyone up for a full moon lap on it this evening (Sunset: 8:20pm / Moonrise: 7:02pm)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 No one...? It should be much cooler later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Had to settle for a roped solo lap up YW - cool temps, solid breeze, and lit up to about half daylight - perfect. Topped it off with breakfast at Cake 'n Steak - perfect as well. Â Also, kudos to Shane's new roomate Kellie who did her first-ever go at rock climbing by doing the SE Corner by moonlight as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Â denalidave: did i meet you up on big ledge a month or so ago? you were saying you could see your house almost from up there? That would be me, nice to meet you Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Had to settle for a roped solo lap up YW - cool temps, solid breeze, and lit up to about half daylight - perfect. Topped it off with breakfast at Cake 'n Steak - perfect as well. Â Also, kudos to Shane's new roomate Kellie who did her first-ever go at rock climbing by doing the SE Corner by moonlight as well. Sweet, I thought someone might be having a late finish epic in the dark when I heard them yelling. Wish I could have done YW last night w/you JH. Maybe next full moon if it is still warm enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Hmmm, Dave, must have been someone else as Shane, Kellie, and Sam moved pretty smoothly with a minimum of yelling. And they started after me and a while after you guys had left. Hopefully the next full moon will be as good the last one and this one which should still be good for the next few nights. Â It really is spectacular and the main problem climbing is that, once you let your eyes adjust to the darkness, the moon is then too damn bright and creating deep, deep black shadows when it's more in your face than on the rock. Then you either have to remember where holds are, feel for them, or use your headlamp for long enough to sort things out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Sounds like fun JH. I'm guessing the folks I heard yelling made it down ok. Just the usual on/off belay calls... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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