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Matthes Crest descent


ericb

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The supertopo book says two ropes are required to rap from the N/S summit. Is this really the case or is there a potential intermediate rap station? We are planning on carrying bivy gear into Cathedral on day one and doing MC on day two and would prefer to not have to carry a second rope for a 2-rope rap. Right now the only ropes we've got are single lead lines and an 8mm x 60 that could be used for the rap.

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I think I remember it being nice having the second rope for the rap, its a little foggy in my mind but I remember this route goes super fast and a little weight from the second rope isnt a big deal. You will want to simo climb the majority of this route and do the complete, its worth it. :) Id just camp at the lake on the Cathedral side of the short pass and hike over in the morning. Its pretty close. You can link a couple others in the area too like Unicorn Peak. Man I miss the Sierra's especially that area, sooooo beautiful.

-Brandon

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I think I remember it being nice having the second rope for the rap, its a little foggy in my mind but I remember this route goes super fast and a little weight from the second rope isnt a big deal. You will want to simo climb the majority of this route and do the complete, its worth it. :) Id just camp at the lake on the Cathedral side of the short pass and hike over in the morning. Its pretty close. You can link a couple others in the area too like Unicorn Peak. Man I miss the Sierra's especially that area, sooooo beautiful.

-Brandon

 

I heard the complete involves some 5.8 downclimbing with crappy pro....

 

Supertopo doesn't have anything on Unicorn Peak...I'll look it up.

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We only had a single 60m rope. I don't remember any problems rapping off but I don't really remember exactly where we rapped off either. Lots of different ways to go. Lots of simo climbing for a long ways. Just keept climbing until the leader only had a couple stoppers left then swing leads. Unicorn is only about a pitch of 5.4 by the easy route. It is kind of in the oposite direction of you stay at cathedral lake. Check out the Echo peaks. They would be right on the way back to camp. Cathedral peak is also well worth braving the crouds.

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