Solid beta on Orizaba/ Serpent's Head route

[unklehuck]

So I'm trying to find some solid beta on climbing Serpent's Head (10 pitch WI 3) on El Pico de Orizaba. I've seen Secor's Mexico's Volcanoes 2nd ed published by the mountaineers...but it seems pretty vague to me; internet searches come up, more or less, empty as well.

Also, any idea where to find good topos for Orizaba and environs in the US?

 

Many Thanks

UnkleHuck

[wfinley]

Can't offer you any real beta other than to say I've seen it from afar and it looks cool!

 

[unklehuck]

Thanks. That's a start.

[fenderfour]

Try calling the outfitters down there. Sr. Limon and Sr. Reyes have climbed many different routes. Since they are outfitters not guides, they are more likely to help out.

Edited July 22, 2008 by fenderfour

[ryland_moore]

Try tracking down Barry Blanchard. He put up a lot of ice line first ascents and has spent a ton of time down there climbing and guiding.

[swaterfall]

Since they are outfitters not guides, they are more likely to help out.

 

OK I'll bite. Why would a guide be less likely to help with beta than an outfitter?

[shaoleung]

Outfitters make money setting you up with gear. Guides make money taking you up the hill.

[swaterfall]

Wow thanks for clearing that up for me... so now STFU n00b!

 

I've never heard of anyone guiding that route. So again, why wouldn't Reyes or Limon, who will outfit your trip and/or arrange for a guide have any problem giving you beta.

 

And to my original point. Have you ever met a guide that wouldn't give you beta on a route even if they do guide it? I don't see the incentive for any one to be that dickish.