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PeterZ

SCARPA FRENEY XT GTX

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Considering getting a pair. Would appreciate any feedback pro/con. I will be using them for steep ice.

 

Thanks...

 

Peter

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I've had the non-goretex earlier version for a while and they fit my medium-wide toes great. bought an asym bar for my G-14s and that really fits nice. pretty warm for how light they are. my non-gore ones have soaked out on a day long approach and then froxe overnight, causing some irritation. I suppose the gore would sort of solve that.

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My first pair of boots were the original Freney's, although they've gone through the Pros, XTs and now XT GTXs since then the basic idea of the boot remains the same - high performance on steep/technical ice and mixed climbing. (Mountains steep, not overhanging fruit boot steep). The asymmetric shape of the last really helped focus power to my big toe whether front pointing or standing on small edges. Definitely a boot designed primarily for the climb and secondarily about the approach. Not ideal for the Cascades but for me personally they had enough comfort for approaches < 8 or 9 miles.

 

Although I haven't climbed in any of the newer iterations, judging by trying them on in a shop I would place them in between the Trango Extremes (yellow or silver) and the Nepal Evos in terms of stiffness/support, weight and dexterity.

 

If you can find a pair to try on and they match the shape of your foot well I think it would be a great boot for what you're looking for. As Mark mentioned they match up almost perfectly with a G-14s with the asym bars.

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I demo'd a pair at the Bozeman Ice Fest because they secured my heel better than the Phantom Lite. Still, I ended up losing my big toenail between the cold temps and bashing it against ice.

 

My friend had a pair that held up solid for a couple years. No complaints. Different stokes for different stokes, I guess.

 

Happy with the K4S and will look at Kayland's Super Ice when it's time to replace Sportiva's discontinued model.

Kayland's Apex XT is simmilar to the Freney. Still trying to get the fit dialed on those as well.

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