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moss killer

[TR] Squamish BC - Polaris 8/6/2008

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we were tanked when we got to astroledge...i dropped our water accidentally...i suck...my buddy still gives me shit about it...

 

Haven't managed to get back to squamish since...its been 3 years...:cry:

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I love borderline, climbed it for the second time on Saturday and that offwidth, thanks for the bolts (3)! I jammed it both times now im told if I want it to feel 10a I should lieback it..hahaha.

 

Wish you would have put a bolted station on top though, quite cramped quarters.

********************

We did not expect people to make two pitches out of the off-width pitch. We put it up as one 55 m pitch, something for everyone to hate, off-width and slab. But I must confess the rope drag on the upper slab moves can be disconcerting when done as one pitch.

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What Susan said on Borderline p5, minus a few meters. Use a very short draw (or even a single locking biner) on the 1st bolt of the OW, to reduce drag.

 

FYI, that particular OW would have been very hard to protect on trad gear. At the time I bolted it, the only commercially available gear it would take was a very shaky #4 Big Bro, which I used for aid as I drilled. I never found a placement I would have trusted in a fall.

 

Also -- is that big scary dead tree still there, halfway up pitch 5? That was the one trundle we never quite managed.

 

-Eric

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That looks awesome!! Can't wait to try it. BTW were you guys working that last summer when someone above started dropping rocks off the top? Not me but someone I knew....he was gonna base jump go figure..

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same with pipeline...two big cams only...a #6 friend, pushed until tipped, then #9 VG and a qd for the bolt...

 

What's a #9 VG??

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Epic route with great variety!

 

That little stub in the crack on the 4th pitch is now far from confidence inspiring, at least for me. I didn't even consider putting a sling on it. It doesn't look nearly as good as in your photo and I shuddered as I stood on it. Whoever made the comments: these guys did not bolt it into submission! I found the bolts to be quite judicious and commendable. I wish the first two pitches and particularly the second pitch weren't so moist but such is life at Squamish.

 

 

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