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jmo

[TR] Mt Rainier NP - DC 7/5/2008

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Trip: Mt Rainier NP - DC

 

Date: 7/5/2008

 

Trip Report:

Saturday was my first attempt at climbing the Mountain. I went with Jordan from CC.com, and once at Muir we met some other CCers. We spent the night on the 4th at the public shelter, which was surprisingly empty.

 

Left Muir at 0130 in a cloudless sky with a slight breeze. By the time we reached Ingaham the breeze had become stronger, and about the time we got on the cleaver a cloud rolled in from the other side of the mountain and the visibility started steadily going down while the winds went up. Several parties turned around at the top of the cleaver, but we kept going.

 

At about 0630 and roughly 14,000 feet the winds were stronger and blowing right at us, and we were covered in rime ice from head to toe and turned around within sight of the crater rim. I was afraid if visibility went down any more we wouldn’t be able to find the wands. Conditions got better on the way down, but were never good. It rained and hailed on us between Muir and Paradise.

 

One of the pickets for the fixed lines below the cleaver was removed by another party. There were pickets for lines above the cleaver, but no lines attached to them. The route was pretty straightforward. There were some crevasses along the route, but none presented any major obstacles. The route was well wanded and easy to find.

 

I got back home just in time. A few hours later my stomach started to hurt, and I had my appendix out this morning. The real summit will have to wait till August.

DSCN2462.JPG

Might post pics later, but didn't take many.

 

Gear Notes:

Jetboil had some difficulty in the cold at altitude. I put some hot water in the cup and put the fuel can in it every 5-10 minutes and it made a big difference.

Edited by jmo

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JMO: thx for the t.r. I hope you'll give it another shot later this season. Congrats on making it as far as you did under those conditions! We waited until Sunday night to head up, but even under perfectly clear skies, it was all I could to to force myself into a standing position atop Columbia Crest--the winds would literally pull you off balance! They were the strongest winds I think I've ever felt....nice work.

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... speaking of the pickets on the DC around the Clever. Why is that the route? My buddy and I climbed the DC (no summit, though) a few weeks ago and I couldn't figure out why the route went around the clever instead of taking the steeper snow field that went up and over. Being that we were both pretty inexperienced, we just followed the bootpack like lemmings.

It seemed like the steeper snowfield would've been safer (although prob physically harder) than the route around the cleaver above steep slopes and cliffs.

Any thoughts?

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It was my first time above Muir, so i Just followed the wands and crowds like lemmings as well.

 

Even on the exposed slopes, I felt safe because the snow conditions where such that my crampons had great traction, and I could arrest easily if I fell.

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I put my cannister under my pillow. It is warm when I wake.

Then I can hold it in my hands while it cooks.

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We made the top via the Kautz on Saturday. The freezing rain and winds ripped our faces off. We "enjoyed" the summit for about 2 minutes while waiting for the GPS to verify that we were actually there and then headed back down the Kautz. Lovely day for a summit.

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We made the top via the Kautz on Saturday. The freezing rain and winds ripped our faces off. We "enjoyed" the summit for about 2 minutes while waiting for the GPS to verify that we were actually there and then headed back down the Kautz. Lovely day for a summit.

 

How much exposed ice on the upper step now?

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20-30 meters maybe. 45-50 degrees. We fixed one line through there but the rest of the chute is clean. There are some big crevasse-holes opening up above the chute but all were easily passable as of last weekend.

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Wow, an appendectomy is quite the experience to return from the mountain! Good luck on your next shot. Hopefully you will have the privilege of good conditions. Thanks for the report. My first summit bid on the DC will be soon on the 21st.

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