Jump to content

backbone with fin gear???


fheimerd

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 28
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes, bring a #6 and leave the rest of the big gear at home. Yes, having to carry that #6 sucks, but all you need is that one wide piece and you can walk it in front of you the whole way up. I only had a #5 and it forced me to climb the upper section with no gear. If I recall, there is a block that you girth hitch at the mid-way point on the OW pitch, after that the #6 will take you all the way to the belay.

 

The rest of the route is mostly small stuff with maybe one hand size piece so after the OW pitch you can put the #6 away and cruise the rest of the route.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much gear for reasonable protection in the big crack. I've got two 4's and a 5...will I shit my pants or be ok?

 

There is no reason to use a #4 anywhere on the route. The bottom half of the OW will take a #5. Without a #6 I would be shitting my pants, but maybe you can handle a 30 foot runout on a 5.9 OW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not the info I wanted. I don;t have a 6. Maybe I'll get one at REI... excuse me sir but I used it once and decided I didn't like the way it handled. That would be wrong : )

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Return

Every

Item

 

Rental

Equipment

Inc.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Secure left leg belay all the way up the

wide crack.

 

Not with my skinny little toothpick leg it ain't - I was swimming in that thing.

 

An old style #5 camalot or #6 C4 camalot or a couple big ass hexes/tube chocks (a la MattP) are necessary for that OW in my opinion. I definitely considered it all of 5.9.

 

My TR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

The crack will likely take big bro-s, it is not flaring. After looking at all the pics I did not bring anything above 2" so never evaluted it for pro, but suspect the inside wall surface might make for wobly BB placements and only allow specific spots for placement, in which case passing them might be hard.

(BTW, right side of dihedral is not just smearing, there are many full blown footholds. Also, the OW is the easiest pitch IMO, unlike the rest of that lichen covered maze.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree, there are tons of great foot jugs for the right foot, and even the left if you want to give your torqued left leg a rest. Dirtyleaf and I climbed Backbone earlier this summer our biggest piece was a 3.5 inch cam. He led it and did just fine, never felt sketched keeping his left side in the crack. It was nice not having to carry a huge useless cam the rest of the route.

 

The hardest pitch is the last one of the Fin, the undercling (Nelson Guide version) that takes you to the top. What a fantastic climb. The pitches I climb on Backbone I always find to be sufficiently clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not the info I wanted. I don;t have a 6. Maybe I'll get one at REI... excuse me sir but I used it once and decided I didn't like the way it handled. That would be wrong : )

 

Thanks for the info.

 

i have a #6 you can stop in West Seattle and borrow for your climb. PM if you're interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...