Mountain_Shots Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Trip: South Sister Solo Bivy - Prouty Headwall Date: 6/19/2008 Trip Report: Knowing the Cascades Lakes Highway was ripe to open, I wanted to get a jump on the high country before the trailheads were accessible. I left my sled near Ball Butte at the wilderness boundary, saving several miles of boring slog. I had two days to wonder so I went around the north side of Broken Top looking for a route on South Sister’s East side that I hadn’t climbed before. Prouty Headwall looked inviting so that’s where I headed. Approaching the base of the climb, I kept an eye below the headwall for falling rocks, there were none. But to the left, by the Old Crater route, there was continual rock fall, and it took awhile to realize the echoes carried across to the prouty headwall. The bergschrund followed the rock wall full length, but could easily be stepped over. Standing at the schrund, two softball size ice chunks whizzed past my helmet, so I moved right along up the short Couloir. At the top, a short steep ridge line lead to a rock wall of loose rubble. The crux was getting above the rubble to gain the upper section of snow leading up to the summit. Most of the rock in those few moves to the upper snowfield was loose and unnerving to weight. Didn’t help having a 45-pound pack with bivy gear and camera gear. Packing in I thought, why did I bring so many clothes and gear. That night I thought, why didn’t I bring more clothes and gear, so I guess it was about right. Glad to get over the rock wall and on to the summit. Windy and cold, so I cut a flat spot inside the crater wall to lay my bag. I had forgot my gaiters and my feet were wet and chilled. My chemical hand warmers, I soon found were old and didn’t work. Carried them for years as back up and now they were dead. I poured boiling water in my nalgine bottle and put it in my crotch to warm the arteries traveling to my toes, now that worked. A hot meal and I was ready to stand out in the wind for a few hours photographing the sunset to the north. Stayed up long enough to howl at the moon, it appeared beyond Broken Top about ten. Up at 5 to photograph the sunrise, decent clouds and color. I took the South Slog Route off the mountain and dropped across the Lewis to Green Lakes. I wanted to return by way of the south side of Broken Top. Crossing the Southeast and the South Ridges, I dam near climbed the mountain, and that dumped me down just below the Broken Top Crater. The North side is a much better route if time and distance are of concern. And you don’t loose as much elevation. No need for snowshoes, most of the snow is firm. Hood may be crowded these days but not the Three Sisters, I didn’t see a soul. Route in showing climb to South Sister Summit. Detail of the Prouty Headwall. Approaching the Headwall. View of the Couloir. Above the Couloir on the short ridge line. Crux move was getting over the loose rock wall. Above the headwall, now an easy climb to the summit. Bivy inside the crater rim blocked the wind. Sunset from the summit looking North. Broken Top and Bend just before the moon came up. Early morning sunrise from the summit. Morning sunrise to the North showing Middle and North Sister, Three Finger Jack, Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and Helens. Gear Notes: Crampons, ice axe, helmet. Approach Notes: Cross Country, seldom traveled area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Awesome trip report and great photos! I actually logged on specifically to ask about South Sister conditions and now most of my questions are answered. Any avalanche danger, especially on the descent? I want to drag a group of semi-newbies up the south side route but not if conditions are dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 great photos, very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 That first sunset shot is absolutely gorgeous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain_Shots Posted June 22, 2008 Author Share Posted June 22, 2008 You should have no avy trouble on the South Side route. You will pass by a sizable avalanche as you near the summit of South Sister though. It will be right below you on the flank of the Lewis Glacier, but your route was clear and in good shape when I was there. The Cascades Lakes Highway did open Thursday to through traffic. There is no plowed areas for parking at trailheads at this time. I guess you could dig out a spot. Have a great climb. Lewis Glacier just below South Sister summit. Close up view. Guess what caused this slide on the north side of Broken Top. The Bowl is full of slides as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Wow, I can't even believe I just saw those pictures. Give the man a prize or something! My, what good taste you have Tvash, this one's my favorite too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmo Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 A prize would be well deserved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fettster Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Great stuff! That's cool to see Bend like that. Those taken with a dSLR? I think my camera would have a tough time in low lighting like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain_Shots Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 Yup, I packed a full sized digital camera up there, along with a carbon fiber tripod, a few lens, polorizer filter, and some grad neutral density filters to deal with the high contrast alpine environment. Today's point and shoots can produce great shots, and they're a lot easier to pack, but, for one thing, they use a smaller size sensor that limits their use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Mountain shots knows how to shoot! Nice summit photos dood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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