tytyler Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Trip: Mt Redoubt - NE Face Date: 6/14/2008 Trip Report: For complete TR & pics, go to: www.elevationadventures.com/2008/06/18/mt-redoubt-ne-face-61408-trial-4/ and for just pics: http://isc.astro.cornell.edu/~don/pictures/v/friends/joe/joe_climbing/joe_ty_redoubt08/ www.flickr.com/photos/tytyler37/ To make a long story short.... Joe and I decided to give the NE Face a go. We weren't totally sure how conditions were going to be, we new they wouldn't be ideal, but we had no idea how bad..... The first portion of the climb is on an 800' face that faces NNW. The climbing was pretty good, styrofoam snow in places and decent pro. As we climbed the conditions deteriorated to rotten snow, but at this point there was no turning back...have to go up. We traversed into the NE Couloir and things just goes worse. The snow was completely unprotectable and the rock was marginal at best. Took us about 8hrs to do 6 pitches of mixed climbing over some of the biggest exposure and scary moments either of us had experienced in the mountains. After more than 12 hrs, we reached the top of the NE Face route! The route then connects to the standard route, but with 400' still to climb and time running out we decided that descending and hiking out was a better idea. The summit will be there another day and there are plenty of routes on this mountain to make another attempt worth while. All in all, my 4th attempt at going for this mountain was yet another chapter in my quest for Mt Redoubt. I've gotten Joe hooked as well, so its pretty easy to simply say: "hey, Redoubt this weekend?" Gear Notes: few nuts, pickets, fluke wish we had a little more rock pro. courage! Approach Notes: Still a good amount of snow near border. Just follow the stream and the trail comes & goes. LOTS of blowdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Strong work guys! Looks like some pretty hairy sections up high there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 In the words of Darth Vader: "Impressive. Most impressive." Lots of exposure with deteriorating snow.... makes you feel alive and mortal, don't it?! Beautiful climb and sounds like you had the perfect partner, somebody who embraced and was motivated by the challenge as opposed to being spooked by it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Nice sporty attempt; way to keep it together! Thanks for the beautiful pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 schweet ... great pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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