mr.radon Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Trip: Yosemite Valley - Reed's Direct - Nutcracker a few others... Date: 6/4/2008 Trip Report: To start off this was my Bachelor Party... RumR, his son, J-dog and a few others made it down to Yosemite with me. My first trip to the valley. I was a little intimidated by J-dog's comments when he came back after his first trip to the valley many years ago. Something about hard ass ratings. However, he had not had a chance to polish his jamming skills at Indian Creek before hand. Reflection: Now that I have had a time to reflect on the trip I have decided that I might just want to become a waiter in one of the parks eating establishments and climb till I'm no longer able to climb, then sit on a lawn chair with a telescope and watch others from dawn to dusk, then be buried within view of Half Dome. Weather: A whole lot nicer then Seattle. Sweet mid 80's, plenty of sun. The set up: RumR takes me to Church Bowl. Climb Bishop's Terrace 5.8 and I'm surprised. It's a 5.8. Climb several other routes, climbs in this area are pretty easy. I mention to RumR that I thought the valley would smack me down hard. The smack down; Reed's Direct: A few comments on Reed's Direct, 5.9 my ass... I knew I was in trouble when RumR started bitching half way up... Kudos to the sweet hotty that joined me on the belay ledge (start of 2nd pitch) to give me motivation not to embarrass myself; which I did. But only because RumR placed a yellow cam way too deep. I finally gave up and hung to pry the little F'er out. Generator Crack: 5.10c my ass! Left leg bruised, left arm shredded, left hand shredded, left shoulder bruised, EGO bruised. Total progress measured in inches. Once again 5.10c my ass! Did I mention the valley rocks? Nutcracker: Give this route some thought if you are a party of three with a 55.8M rope and a 60M rope. Last two pitches I'd like to forget about. Other then that, what a sweet route. Highly recommended. Love the gear belays. Wish I had NOT brought the black climbing shoes, as my toes fried in the sun. Did I mention that climbing with a party of three there was plenty of time to get the toes fried? Ah, but this allowed more time to take in the awesome vista offered higher up the route while prying off hot climbing shoes with a QD and sling so as not to loose a shoe way off the deck. First time I had the pleasure to wiggle my toes on slick granite on a hanging belay. All in all - if you have never been, go to the Valley. WOW... If you have been and are heading back, take me with you... Thanks for the leads RumR & J-dog! Gear Notes: Three racks, many ropes... Approach Notes: Mini van with RumR. He made the mistake of selecting a MEXICAN restaurant in Sacramento before the drive back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Yeah! And congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 you shoulda bouldered with me and Drewber instead of baking all day on nutcracker with carter and jdog... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 TimL in Spain, long time no hear. Nice to hear from you and Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Ive heard everything there is 5.? my ass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 good times Mr R. Congrats on the pending nuptuals. Generator is pretty fair for 10c wide. Most people just don't put in enough mileage on the wide for it to feel that way. Reeds p2 always seems pretty continuous and steep for 5.9, but the p3 10a OW is the real biz on this one. Did ya'll get a chance to hit Stone Groove and Lunatic Fringe while at Reeds? If not, put em on the list for the next trip. Five and Dime is just below the road near where you park for Reeds (descend by the end of the tunnel). There are some more excellent pitches there...Five and Dime, Keystone Corner, Copper Penny are all very nice. Generator is not too 'bagged at 10c. I think Ahab at 10b is harder, but 1096 at .10d felt easier...go figure. I do love Generator, but IMO 1096 is a five star classic, protects well, and is aesthetic. It's also right next to Hangdog Flyer, you could probably drop a rope down it after 1096 and get your hard liebacking groove on. Ahh man, you got me hating this work life, wish I was up there right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Hangdog isn't a giveaway 12a/b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 good times Mr R. Congrats on the pending nuptuals. Generator is pretty fair for 10c wide. Most people just don't put in enough mileage on the wide for it to feel that way. Reeds p2 always seems pretty continuous and steep for 5.9, but the p3 10a OW is the real biz on this one. Did ya'll get a chance to hit Stone Groove and Lunatic Fringe while at Reeds? If not, put em on the list for the next trip. Five and Dime is just below the road near where you park for Reeds (descend by the end of the tunnel). There are some more excellent pitches there...Five and Dime, Keystone Corner, Copper Penny are all very nice. Generator is not too 'bagged at 10c. I think Ahab at 10b is harder, but 1096 at .10d felt easier...go figure. I do love Generator, but IMO 1096 is a five star classic, protects well, and is aesthetic. It's also right next to Hangdog Flyer, you could probably drop a rope down it after 1096 and get your hard liebacking groove on. Ahh man, you got me hating this work life, wish I was up there right now. well said...i thought ahab was much much harder than generator... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Sounds like a great trip, some real classics for a first visit. Here, I just gotta put up this old picture of Werner Braun solo on Reeds... It's been a long time since I did that route, but just thinking about it makes my forearms feel pumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 it was a low key, yet whirlwind trip...this was my oldest boy's and Mr. Radon's first climbing trip to the valley...i think they were both, at times, spellbound, shocked, overwhelmed, amazed, pleased and beaten soundly...all in all a tremendous trip... I saw a movie with Ron Kauk narrating and personally introducing the film on Saturday night with Drew and Jdog (Radon chose to watch "Rambo" at camp instead..., my boy is more sophisticated than him!). The movie was really more about the valley, in its seasons, seen from Kauk's eyes than a true climbing flick. In fact, there was probably only 10-15 minutes of actual footage of him climbing...but it was a lot of scenery and his reflections on a lifetime spent in what some consider to be a sacred place. The film was called "Return to Balance: a Climber's perspective on a lifetime in the valley"...its been on PBS... I was/am hoping that Drew sees this side of climbing, and the campfire side of climbing, and the camaraderie side of climbing, complete with the shittalking, s'more eating, dirt bag living than the euro sporto model of crushing routes and competition and teams etc. For this, i can see why Dwayner appears bitter and i can see his nostalgic look back into time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 I was/am hoping that Drew sees this side of climbing, and the campfire side of climbing, and the camaraderie side of climbing, complete with the shittalking, s'more eating, dirt bag living than the euro sporto model of crushing routes and competition and teams etc. You've got to show it to him. He's got a background in team sports, doesn't he? That's a mindset you've got to overcome to embrace the whole experiential approach to climbing. I think my first climbing trip to the valley included all those feelings too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 only team sport he does is soccer...but his other "individual" sports (ski racing and wrestling) definitely are "measurement based" and have "winners and losers"... Yosemite has a way of discounting numbers...of actually looking at the climbing as a path, not a measurement...pretty hard to get the same kind of feeling at say, ww1 at little si or in the gym... they have their place too, as i was bitterly reminded of what a lack of conditioning can do to you in a place like the valley... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 it was a low key, yet whirlwind trip...this was my oldest boy's and Mr. Radon's first climbing trip to the valley...i think they were both, at times, spellbound, shocked, overwhelmed, amazed, pleased and beaten soundly...all in all a tremendous trip... I saw a movie with Ron Kauk narrating and personally introducing the film on Saturday night with Drew and Jdog (Radon chose to watch "Rambo" at camp instead..., my boy is more sophisticated than him!). The movie was really more about the valley, in its seasons, seen from Kauk's eyes than a true climbing flick. In fact, there was probably only 10-15 minutes of actual footage of him climbing...but it was a lot of scenery and his reflections on a lifetime spent in what some consider to be a sacred place. The film was called "Return to Balance: a Climber's perspective on a lifetime in the valley"...its been on PBS... I was/am hoping that Drew sees this side of climbing, and the campfire side of climbing, and the camaraderie side of climbing, complete with the shittalking, s'more eating, dirt bag living than the euro sporto model of crushing routes and competition and teams etc. For this, i can see why Dwayner appears bitter and i can see his nostalgic look back into time... saw that movie/presentation while i was there last month... some uninterested kid fell asleep in the front row. Ron woke him up and gave him a free book for sleeping thru the show. it was pretty classic! the kid was totally dazed and had no idea why he was getting the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 hahahaha... Kauk seems like a good ol' boy in some ways crossed with an old indian chief...i guess that what he really is...musta been crazy back in the old days to see those guys in their prime... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.