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mvs

[TR] Cortina, Italy - Punta Fiames, Spigolo Jori (5.8) 6/1/2008

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Trip: Cortina, Italy - Punta Fiames, Spigolo Jori (5.8)

 

Date: 6/1/2008

 

Trip Report:

The "Jori" ridge on Punta Fiames is visible from Cortina as a knife edge on the left side of the Pomagagnon cliffs. It's a really nice climb, about 15 pitches with 4 pitches of sustained 5.7-5.8 on the upper part of the ridge. There is nice crack and chimney climbing, and the views dropping off into the abyss are amazing!

 

The route shares the first 5 pitches with another line, the "normal" route on the mountain which is 5.6, and has nice looking vertical chimney climbing (I was admiring that climb from belay ledges).

 

Bolted belays, but otherwise only occasional pitons. Large cams are helpful. Here are some pics:

 

Dan at a belay

2545101292_da8677b34b.jpg

 

A long crack pitch with big air!

2545101646_4dafb9ca5a.jpg

 

Looking up the "crux" pitch

2544276265_4a8ab59dda.jpg

 

Always nice scenery on the side of the ridge

2544276717_dc93990afa.jpg

 

Horning in on a portrait of Cortina

2544277465_e78ac390f7.jpg

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Take an "Outer Space" rack, but emphasis on larger cams.

 

Approach Notes:

Just do it in good weather! We tried the day before and literally climbed a frightening pitch on the _wrong mountain_. It was raining too. We were idiots.

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thanks for sharing mvs. I read your stuff on summitpost.org good stuff you doing. you making me jealous! keep it up.

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Awesome, I am coming back out in September again and it looks like the snow is all melted and things are good to go already!!

 

thanks for the stoke, we may actually come through Munich this time around..may have to look you up for some ideas if your around

 

Cheers

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It's about time you posted another TR- welcome back. Nice pics, and thanks for postin'. ;)

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Glad y'all like! I gotta remind you now and then to come to Old Socialist Europe :). Exchange rate couldn't suck worse though...

 

@jmace - sure thing, hope to see you!

 

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good to see a tr from you here! I have greatly enjoyed the mountainwerks website and been inspired by your stories!

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Thanks guys. Hey Lisa yes your cousin is insane, but looking at all the trips you rack up in a year so are you! Yall both have great web sites, been a big "time sink" for me lately :)

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