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ericandlucie

East Ridge of Inspiration (summer '07)

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Great photos and nice beta for others.

 

The descent off that thing is brutal...

 

I would estimate the crack you climbed to be more like 5.9 than 5.10 -- great jams the whole way and not quite vertical -- but certainly sustained and in a tremendous position!

 

Nice work!

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Thanks guys.

Goatboy: about that crack, I agree with 5.9 for most of the pitch, but we both felt that the final moves to traverse right, out of the vanishing crack to the belay were 5.10a... go figure!

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Thought I should clarify something: there are two possible cracks for this pitch: the one to the right is apparently 5.9. The other one, directly above the ledge, is much cleaner looking and - I think - harder. We climbed the latter, which I still feel is about 10a.

The pic below (borrowed from Steph, http://sabegg.googlepages.com) shows the 5.9 crack in red. The other crack is clearly visible right above the climber. Hope the link works...

2688089356_47fbcab733_o.jpg

 

 

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Cool -- nice pic (steph!) -- thanks for the clarity.

 

Ericandlucie, you climbed the same crack (the left hand one) that I did. I still say 5.9 for it, but I agree that the rightward traverse at the end was thin, and the crack overall strenuous.

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