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[TR] Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip 5/19/2008

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Trip: Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip


Date: 5/19/2008


Trip Report:

After a few bails on the nose last year, i wanted to try more of a 'walling' route and see what happens. something with a little less of a daily rush and less free climbing. Seemed like Tangerine Trip would fit the bill. with 17 pitches, moderate aid and only a couple sections of easy mandatory free climbing, our plan was to fix 1 pitch, then blast - going 4 pitches a day.



my partner flew into SLC friday night at about 10:30 pm and we started the drive from there. Straight thru w/ a 2 hour nap near reno where we bought canned ravioli and water. continuing on, we roll into the valley to find a full-on traffic jam and melting black top, as it was about 95 degrees. we couldn't wait to get on the wall and out of the frickin traffic and tourons on this busy saturday afternoon. BLAH!


we spend the rest of the afternoon gazing up at the wall and packing the haulbags.




The Route(very faint red line)




Sunday, after waiting line so we could spend that night in camp4, we took 2 trips shuttling loads to the base. it was about an hour and a half to get to the base with the heavy loads and only about 20 minutes to get back down. But finally after the second load, we are climbing.


Pitch 1



belaying the fist pitch is suxor! The wall gives a constant rain shower and the mosquitos are feasting. That, and i have to keep an eye out for the rattlesnake that was chilling at the base when we got there.



yadda yadda yadda, we get pitch 1 fixed, haul and then go to the buffet.


Monday we blast off. This would be the big day. hike + jug + 4 pitches...and would put us at the top of pitch 5...committment! this would also turn out to be the only night we need headlamps to set up the ledge.


All of P4 straight up to roof, then back down (photo credit: tom 'elcappics' evans )



Cleaning pitch 4 follower down aids to clean this pitch (photo credit: tom evans)





Parner leading P5




ok, i'm tired of typing.... long story short - the route was steep, it got cold, we keep the 4P/day pace, topped out on thursday evening, it was snowing friday morning. here are some pics:


Making the bed



Partner cleaning P8 seemed like every pitch was a traverse



all of P8 very, for me, involved pitch. started with hook traverse off ledge, to bolt/rivet ladder, to 5.7 tension, to thin A2 corner, to expando, to more hook traverse, to anchor ... a little of everything (photo credit: tom 'ansel' evans )



lots of hooking all really bomber and fun



biner-to-bolt ratio.... off the charts!



these snozzberries taste like snozzberries



Somewhere on the rout



Generic Aid photo rivet ladder



P14 cuz it matters






We got back down to the base friday mid-day to a rainy valley. both tioga and sonora pass had been closed due to snow, so we had to take the long way home. good thing, since we passed this:





was a great trip, and thanks to a good partner - was an uneventful and prowd send! Thanks also to Tom Evans for keeping tabs on everybody on the wall and taking some killer pics from a different vantage.


Gear Notes:

dbl offset aliens

mastercams to red

tcu's to red

aliens to grey

offset nuts


trple to #3

dbl #4

one #5

double hooks

double camhooks

dozen rivet hangers

2 PBR's

not enough warm clothes

LaSportiva Ventors - greatest wallshoe ever!

fruit rollups



few beaks

few blades

few sawed-offs

p00p t00b

rubber chicken

dbl ipod nano's



Approach Notes:


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nice, nice! looks like you had some nice weather. how are those rivet ladders holding up?

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yup, dispite the cold wind - we really lucked out on the weather. rain and snow cleared off the captain in the following days.


i've read horror stories of the rivet ladders and even saw some evidence of old downsloaping dowels. lucky for us, all the rivet ladders have been 'upgraded' to hangerless bolts with a hangered bolt here and there for pro. kudos to those who sent it w/ the old dowels....

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Nice job. It's a shame they didn't leave some of the old dowel ladder pitches. Maybe a bolt every 30ft or so would have been fine but whatever. Great job getting up the capitan.

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Did you have "sea legs" after 4 days on the wall?


between that, the celebratory Marlboro red (i don't smoke) and the PBR... YES



It's a shame they didn't leave some of the old dowel ladder pitches. Maybe a bolt every 30ft or so would have been fine but whatever. Great job getting up the capitan


thanks. yah, that could have added a little spice/notstalgia/fun and all. but, i guess this way it prevents gapers (us) from shotty replacement if one blows.





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