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underworld

[TR] Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip 5/19/2008

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Trip: Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip

 

Date: 5/19/2008

 

Trip Report:

After a few bails on the nose last year, i wanted to try more of a 'walling' route and see what happens. something with a little less of a daily rush and less free climbing. Seemed like Tangerine Trip would fit the bill. with 17 pitches, moderate aid and only a couple sections of easy mandatory free climbing, our plan was to fix 1 pitch, then blast - going 4 pitches a day.

 

 

my partner flew into SLC friday night at about 10:30 pm and we started the drive from there. Straight thru w/ a 2 hour nap near reno where we bought canned ravioli and water. continuing on, we roll into the valley to find a full-on traffic jam and melting black top, as it was about 95 degrees. we couldn't wait to get on the wall and out of the frickin traffic and tourons on this busy saturday afternoon. BLAH!

 

we spend the rest of the afternoon gazing up at the wall and packing the haulbags.

 

2528640424_73af6bf741.jpg

 

The Route(very faint red line)

 

2527863625_073e3979b5.jpg

 

Sunday, after waiting line so we could spend that night in camp4, we took 2 trips shuttling loads to the base. it was about an hour and a half to get to the base with the heavy loads and only about 20 minutes to get back down. But finally after the second load, we are climbing.

 

Pitch 1

2528607988_083bbf9843.jpg

 

belaying the fist pitch is suxor! The wall gives a constant rain shower and the mosquitos are feasting. That, and i have to keep an eye out for the rattlesnake that was chilling at the base when we got there.

 

 

yadda yadda yadda, we get pitch 1 fixed, haul and then go to the buffet.

 

Monday we blast off. This would be the big day. hike + jug + 4 pitches...and would put us at the top of pitch 5...committment! this would also turn out to be the only night we need headlamps to set up the ledge.

 

All of P4 straight up to roof, then back down (photo credit: tom 'elcappics' evans )

2528730058_ca240cb777.jpg

 

Cleaning pitch 4 follower down aids to clean this pitch (photo credit: tom evans)

2528730088_0668e85ac3.jpg

 

 

 

Parner leading P5

2528608100_303ba11314.jpg

 

 

ok, i'm tired of typing.... long story short - the route was steep, it got cold, we keep the 4P/day pace, topped out on thursday evening, it was snowing friday morning. here are some pics:

 

Making the bed

2528623884_873991d8a0.jpg

 

Partner cleaning P8 seemed like every pitch was a traverse

2528623852_a115bb7ffa.jpg

 

all of P8 very, for me, involved pitch. started with hook traverse off ledge, to bolt/rivet ladder, to 5.7 tension, to thin A2 corner, to expando, to more hook traverse, to anchor ... a little of everything (photo credit: tom 'ansel' evans )

2528730142_941c12f44a.jpg

 

lots of hooking all really bomber and fun

2528623796_b87e129af2.jpg

 

biner-to-bolt ratio.... off the charts!

2528661362_3cb77f90f2.jpg

 

these snozzberries taste like snozzberries

2528661350_d255b0b6cd.jpg

 

Somewhere on the rout

2528649620_4735cc268a.jpg

 

Generic Aid photo rivet ladder

2528661380_95f614f66b.jpg

 

P14 cuz it matters

2528623900_28b5fb2eae.jpg

 

w00t!

2528649602_35ffa87bdc.jpg

 

We got back down to the base friday mid-day to a rainy valley. both tioga and sonora pass had been closed due to snow, so we had to take the long way home. good thing, since we passed this:

 

2527863607_9a0a227e35.jpg

 

 

was a great trip, and thanks to a good partner - was an uneventful and prowd send! Thanks also to Tom Evans for keeping tabs on everybody on the wall and taking some killer pics from a different vantage.

 

Gear Notes:

dbl offset aliens

mastercams to red

tcu's to red

aliens to grey

offset nuts

nuts

trple to #3

dbl #4

one #5

double hooks

double camhooks

dozen rivet hangers

2 PBR's

not enough warm clothes

LaSportiva Ventors - greatest wallshoe ever!

fruit rollups

sardines

ravioli

few beaks

few blades

few sawed-offs

p00p t00b

rubber chicken

dbl ipod nano's

water

 

Approach Notes:

suxor!

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nice, nice! looks like you had some nice weather. how are those rivet ladders holding up?

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yup, dispite the cold wind - we really lucked out on the weather. rain and snow cleared off the captain in the following days.

 

i've read horror stories of the rivet ladders and even saw some evidence of old downsloaping dowels. lucky for us, all the rivet ladders have been 'upgraded' to hangerless bolts with a hangered bolt here and there for pro. kudos to those who sent it w/ the old dowels....

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Nice job. It's a shame they didn't leave some of the old dowel ladder pitches. Maybe a bolt every 30ft or so would have been fine but whatever. Great job getting up the capitan.

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Did you have "sea legs" after 4 days on the wall?

 

between that, the celebratory Marlboro red (i don't smoke) and the PBR... YES

 

 

It's a shame they didn't leave some of the old dowel ladder pitches. Maybe a bolt every 30ft or so would have been fine but whatever. Great job getting up the capitan

 

thanks. yah, that could have added a little spice/notstalgia/fun and all. but, i guess this way it prevents gapers (us) from shotty replacement if one blows.

 

 

 

 

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