Boot Recommendations

[Buckaroo]

Still the lightest on the market for this type boot. Heel bail for aluminum cramps, any lighter of a boot doesn't work well with alum cramps.

 

I've climbed 5.10 in these if it's an edging route, the rubber is hella sticky.

 

while not for everyone I would do the N ridge of Stuart in these. I did the N ridge(w/gendarme) before in the ankle top 5.10 guides.

 

You have to wear them at UW rock or cragging to get used to them, they climb really well.

 

If you do take rock shoes these are pretty much light enough to carry in the pack. Anyone should be able to do the W ridge in these. If you did the N ridge you could just put the rock shoes on from the Gendarme to the top.

 

Pretty popular and well stocked, you quite often see them on-sale

 

 

Sportiva Trango S EVO

[pindude]

Just found this thread. McCall Boater, Glad your Vortexes worked for you. I'm guessing you had a great time. Based on your description, I'll have to try them on as a lighter weight hiker-scrambler, as several of the Asolo line fit my feet well.

 

5K, from your Stuart WR TR photos I see you chose Scarpa's Triolet. Good boot for ankle support. Equivalent to the above Sportiva. Sounds like a good boot for you with the Cascadian descent.

 

Personal fit is the key: in the Scarpa Triolet-Sportiva Trango class, Asolo's Expert GV

fits my high-volume, high-arched, wide-forefooted feet best. For me, the Triolet was too narrow across my forefoot, and the Trango even narrower.

[mccallboater]

Steve,

 

That's my boot but with a little more stiffness and front bumper beefiness. I Iike the lacing on the Expert GV too. But it's heavier, alass. Such is life.

[mccallboater]

A caveat with all the boots of this type. My sole started to delam after about 150 miles on them. My local shoe repair guy fixed it with super glue, but warned that Asolo and ALL of the boots like the trango S have soles assembled with heat-activated glue. So don't relax and enjoy yourself around the campfire. Your boots will fall apart.

[DanO]

I would caution anyone new out there that there is a big

difference between regular tennis shoes and shoes made for

climbing. The tennis like shoes which are made for climbing

have a different construction and usually have a much more

sticky rubber on the soles, especially the 5.10 brand of

approach hiking/climbing shoe. Don't go cheap on your

approach/hiking tennis shoe, go cheap other places if

you need to. Personally I think the 5.10 approach shoes

have the most sticky rubber. In any case find a shoe

made for scrambling, approach, and low 5th class. Don't

buy a regular tennis shoe of any type or make. This is

my opinion. Lot of accidents could be traced to cheap

shoes or worn out shoes.

 

 

[rob]

Lot of accidents could be traced to cheap

shoes or worn out shoes.

 

 

Really? Sounds plausible, but I'm not sure I've heard of any, let alone "lots"

[rbw1966]

Yeah, I'd like to see some back-up for that assertion as well.

 

I used a pair of Scarpa Zens on my recent West Ridge trip and they served me well.

[DanO]

Well, I said lots of accidents could be traced to worn out

or non appropriate shoes. I do know of two incidents by hearsay

where someone fell while using either worn out and/or regular sneakers rather than shoes made for scrambling.

 

As you can imagine it would be a sensitive subject to say the

subject got hurt etc because they fell using not using the best footware possible.

 

In any case I brought the subject up, this is my opinion and

if one decides to save money on shoes to buy the cool jacket

etc I personally think that is a bad choice.

 

Finally this is something stated more for the new person out

there. Not for the old hand who makes his choices and takes

his or her chances etc with their experience.

 

Lastly this whole thing is really more for hikers where these

incidents mostly happen(to my indirect knowledge, no proof).

[DanO]

The Scarpa Zen is a high quality approach shoe? This

is the "proper" footwear for scrambling, right?

 

Look I tried to go out before with regular tennis shoes,

I had good quality but normal tennis shoes and they

was total crap scrambling and low 5th class, I could

do it but it was not smart.

 

By the way, since I started this, I have a small rant, Me

and my GF went to REI in Seattle and in Bellingham and they

have almost no selection for scrambling and approach shoes.

To put it very bluntly I think they have a responsiblity to

carry these types of shoes in a decent selection. Of course

others could have good reason to dispute my opinion. But

I think of all the people who go in there and

buy footwear with intention of scrambling 3rd class.

There is a difference between sticky rubber approach and

scrambling shoes than regular hiking shoes or boots. Of

course most of us here can do just fine with mountaineering boots.

Still, I think as big as REI is especially at the flagship

store they can do better.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2008 by DanO

[rbw1966]

I've been scrambling in nike running shoes, solomon low-top hiking shoes, garmont hiking shoes, technical mountaineering boots, etc., etc., etc. On a couple of occasions, even barefoot.

 

My point is that you wrote "Lot of accidents could be traced to cheap shoes or worn out shoes" yet provide absolutely no backup for it. When asked, you provide examples that are--in your own words--hearsay. In over 20 years of climbing I can't recall ever hearing of an accident due to faulty, failed or inappropriate footwear. Like someone else posted, it seems plausible but an opinion is not empirical evidence.

 

What is "proper" footwear is, like most equipment choices, highly subjective.

[DanO]

Well, Proof I cannot give, so it is time to compile the numbers.

 

It seems to be good sense to use proper equipment in every other

area , such as no cotton clothes, shelter, good jacket, map and so on. John Muir went out with a old over coat and a loaf

of bread and who knows what kind of shoes and lived to a old

age. I doubt few of us would do that.

 

I think if I was telling a good friend or a love one on what shoes

to buy I would be careful.

 

[Peakpimp]

I'm pretty sure Beckey and company climbed in converse all-stars or something similar right? They made it up stuff I never could in 1940's tennis shoes.

[DanO]

Ok, I give up,

 

Here you go.

 

 

 

Probably will be like walking on greased monkey snot on razor

wire, but what the hey, it will be exciting!!

 

 

Edited September 25, 2008 by DanO

[DanO]

OK, since this is a thread to help someone select a shoe,

I think someone could do worse than these, I got a pair

recently and so far so good.

 

 

http://www.promountainsports.com/graphics/5-10-camp-four.jpg

 

Sold at Pro mountain sports and not at REI

 

http://www.promountainsports.com/boots.shtml

 

I have no connection to any store except as a customer.

REI has a couple of suitable shoes, they should have a much

better selection.

 

 

Other than these any well made shoe made for the purpose

of scrambling or approach should be a good choice. If not

this then hiking shoes but I personally doubt that hiking shoes

are as good when actually scrambling on 3rd to low

5th class. Women should check out shoes made for women, if they can find them. Although if the above shoe fits etc, etc it should

work well with both sexs.

 

fini,

Edited September 25, 2008 by DanO