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mount hood - cooper spur approach


shanahan96

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dunno but goign that way this weekend - i'm planning on having to hoof it from the ski area but not concerned - even from there it's just 2 hours or so to tilly jane/cloudcap. you only gain a 1/2 hr to hr if you can get as far up the road as the 2nd gate, which i'd say is damned unlikely

 

watcha planning on doing? wanna plan a moon-tower party at tie-in rock?!?

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Dudes, the road is closed not far after the Tilly Jane Trailhead, sorry but you're humping the 3 miles to TJ the old fashioned way. I've been looking to get up this route as well, just can't find anyone crazy enough to do the 8 mile one way slog with me...

Hiked up to 8.5k three weeks ago with the dog to scout it out, route was A+++ and could have been done ropeless and cramponless. Of course four 90 degree days and some warm rain can change things quickly... planning on bringing some ice screws and two tools if I go.

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I really should get a GPS. That was me on summitpost. There is a fork in the road where to the left a gate blocks you from the resort I suppose. Follow the road to the right for maybe a mile to a small parking lot. A trail marked 'ski trail' leads out of this lot, I believe the sign said 2.5 miles, to cloud cap I presume.

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I thought everyone who climbed Cooper Spur or Sunshine routes on Hood climbed it by doing a bivy at the Tilley Jane cabin. If you hike up to the cabin the night before with no cooking gear and no sleeping bag, just your regular climbing gear plus stove to melt snow, you can have a fire in the iron stove downstairs that puts enough heat upstairs to let you endure sleeping in your winter gear wrapped in a space blanket. A "bivy" at Tilley Jane is well below the timberline, but the extra hour so of ascent on climb day sure beats hauling tent and sleeping bag from the car up to a high cam" and they over the mountain.

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did most of this route today - approached in foul weather y-day and bivied in the stone shelter at 6700 - cleaned all the snow out of the shelter and cut in a sweet bench - the continous sound of pounding rain on the metal roof all night made me happy not to have wandered up to the tie-in rock area to spend the night in a snow cave in the cloud murk - great booting conditions on the upper spur - some slide activity, made much more intimidating when climbing in the total white-out above 9k. nobody on the mtn on the n side on memorial day!

 

i'd say bivyign in the tilly jane hut is practically worthless - you've only gained 2k and 2.5 miles from the p-lot? why not just do a light weight bivy at the stone shelter or in a cave higher up? or just do the whole thing in a day?

 

snowshoes are pointless currently and no doubt will be for folks interested in the spur for the rest of the season - really interesting part sand/part snow fields in the meadows around 6k

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Nice work Ivan, that shelter was totally buried when I was up there a month ago, I just saw the roof poking through a big snow drift : )

 

Can't wait to take another shot at this route, I failed my first attempt 3 years ago, and want retribution!

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Cooper Spur Pics

 

From Climber Hut Sunday afternoon

Climber_Hut_view.jpg

 

Cooper Spur Ridge to Tie-In Rock, Memorial Day

CS_Ridge.jpg

 

Tie-In Rock Tourist

Tie_In_Rock_looking_SE.jpg

 

Ivan heads into the shit

Ivan_CS_Ridge_1.jpg

 

Tie_in rock, Ivan continues up. Ambient air temp ca 46F, sounds of thunder to the East, way out of my league.

Upper_CS_Route_1.jpg

 

I had thought "Yeah, well, it's my first attempt on this route so no big deal to bail in these conditions". Right. Ivan returns after reaching ca. 10,500' and says he solo'd it on his first attempt. Then he runs back to the hut, packs, and runs all the way back to the bottom of the TJ trail. Damn kids these days!

 

 

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Wow!!! Wild cloud pics! Last time I made it above Tie in rock, I stopped to munch a cliff bar and take a quick break when all of a sudden a marmot darted out of a little snow cave and ran right between by legs. It scared the absolute shit out of me... what the heck do those things eat up there?!

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