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wayne

Your Climbing Heroes

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My Climbing :pagetop:

Jack Durrance for rushing to Devil's Tower from Dartmouth to rescue the stranded parachutist.

Excellent find, Billy!

Must go back and amend my list with Paul and Jack! :tup: :tup:

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as a side note, isn't it vaguely ghey to have heroes?

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sorry, one more that I can't forget, Bob Waldrop. Where are you these days?

 

He lives in Anchorage. If you want his contact info PM me.

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I find it interesting that the most inspiring climbers for the majority of you respondees are people you have not personally known or climbed with. I'm not sure what that means, if anything.

 

I too am inspired by the famous names written above (Rubuffat, Terray, etc.) mostly through their skill with the written word. I'd like to add big Bill Tillman to that list. But those folks did not get me into the mountains and change the way I live my life. The people who actually dragged me out there and showed me what truly matters are the ones who I immediately think of as my heros.

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Heroes......Note - no particular order

 

Fred Becky

Alex Lowe

Dick Bass & Frank Wells

Jim Hinkehouse, Scott Hall (climbing friend),

Bobbi Bensmen

Lynn Hill

Steve Swenson

Don Serl

Tony Yaniro

Seth Shaw

Randy Leavitt

Alan Watts

Ian Caldwell

Dan Cauthorn

Ed Cooper

Justin Sjong

Warren Harding

Reinhold Messner

Dave Gunstone

Muffy Muffy Muffy

 

Climbers I've never liked

Greg Child

Scott Hall (Mountain Maddness)

Jim Donini

Gary Brill

:yoda:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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as a side note, isn't it vaguely ghey to have heroes?

 

fer shers

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I find it interesting that the most inspiring climbers for the majority of you respondees are people you have not personally known or climbed with. I'm not sure what that means, if anything.

 

Oh I beg your pardon...I've either climbed with or in the same party as most all on my list. If you climb long enough and travel and climb in remote places is where you meet these folks along the way.

:yoda:

 

 

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Heroes......Note - no particular order

 

Fred Becky

Alex Lowe

Dick Bass & Frank Wells

Jim Hinkehouse, Scott Hall (climbing friend),

Bobbi Bensmen

Lynn Hill

Steve Swenson

Don Serl

Tony Yaniro

Seth Shaw

Randy Leavitt

Alan Watts

Ian Caldwell

Dan Cauthorn

Ed Cooper

Justin Sjong

Warren Harding

Reinhold Messner

Dave Gunstone

Muffy Muffy Muffy

 

Climbers I've never liked

Greg Child

Scott Hall (Mountain Maddness)

Jim Donini

Gary Brill

:yoda:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

this made my whole day :moondance:

 

my climbing heroes tend to be local and personal well most of them...

Jim Anglin

Bill Sules(how ever you spell it)

Peter and Chris Fralick

Cody Peterson

Mike South

Karsten Duncen

Reuben Bedingfield

Moneky Boy---I can't remeber his real name

Mikey Layton

Terminal Gravity

Minx

Archy

Sherri

Lynn Hill

John Long

Steph Davis

Katey and Ben

Bill Co

 

See I forgot Collin--- He is such an awsome kid!!!

I am sure I have missed a bunch but those are the folks that came to the top of my brain.

Edited by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer

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my kids...they remind me what climbing is supposed to be about...hangin' in the dirt, hangin' with good buddies, enjoying being outside in the most bitchin' places, and just plain reveling in climbing...all others pale in comparison (to me, of course)...

 

If i had to pick a "famous" climber, it would be Mr. Alan Watts...stupendous climbing skill, down home attitude, single handedly revolutionized american climbing and a great guy all around...

 

 

Several other local climbers are living a variation of the theme my kids are about, but on an adult level...and i love hearin' the stories...

 

They would be bigwallben...he's putting stuff down and livin' the dream locally and nationally

 

JensHolsten for chasing the dream and living the climbing life in a Jack Kerouac (spelling?) style....

 

and TimL who somehow has managed to combine his two biggest passions...E and climbing...

 

Dr. Evil has managed to climb at a stunning level and put himself through med school...the PNW won't be the same without that guy...

 

Edited by RuMR

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If i had to pick a "famous" climber, it would be Mr. Alan Watts...stupendous climbing skill, down home attitude, single handedly revolutionized american climbing and a great guy all around...

 

Nice guy, but brought American climbing into a Dark Age in which it still wallows. Climbing was going through a clean/green revolution further enhanced by new technology (including cams) and a ground-up ethic still prevailed. Here comes rap-bolting Watts to Smith Rocks (and I was around there before, during and afterwards), bringing seductive, cheap and dirty Euro-tactics which continue to pollute climbing over 20 years later. I wonder if he had any idea how it would turn out....

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:yawn:

 

funny...he went down to the valley and shredded standards there climbing ground up...

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True dat . I spent hours belaying him on several 5.13s. That guy was not afraid to take huge whippers on RPs!

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The people who actually dragged me out there and showed me what truly matters are the ones who I immediately think of as my heros.

 

:tup:

 

I've read a bunch of inspiring writing, but when you get down to it the climber who inspired me the most is my dad. When I was a little kid I'd stare at pictures of climbs he had done in the past. While I was still young he got me out in the mountains scrambling and on AT skis. He encouraged me to start climbing as a teen.

 

He even let me lead the crux pitch on das tooth when I first started climbing. :grlaf::tup:

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Climbers that have inspired me and that I have met or climbed with:

 

Lynn Hill

Chris Sharma

Sonny Trotter

Tony Yaniro

Tommy Caldwell

Brad Jarrett

Heather Jarrett

Maggie Evansen

John Stewart

Kevin Rouch

Mark D

Andrew Liener

Bill Coe

Ben Priestly

Arent Wortel

Jim Opdyke

Bob Graham

David Daily

Bryan Smith

David Sowerby

Anyone who climbs 5.11 cracks

Anyone who goes for it

Anyone who climbs at Beacon

Anyone with little or no ego

Anyone who knows how to get to the “land of the little people”

 

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Two more who deserve an honorable mention are Bachar and Viesturs. These guys have made some extraordinary accomplishments and inspired many modern climbers. Both seem to be generally decent human beings as well.

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OK. So if you had to choose ONE climber that inspired you the most…….who would it be?

 

 

 

I would have to say Pink. I would not climb today if Andrew and I would not have been room mate’s years ago. He used to always try to get me to go climbing and I would always try to get him to go mt biking on that awesome bike he had that I rode more than him. One day I went climbing and I never mt biked again (not literally). Thanks Pink!

 

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OK. So if you had to choose ONE climber that inspired you the most…….who would it be?

Easy. Frank Gibson, hands down. Story is similar to yours. I used to do a shitload of cave exploration/surveying/mapping with Frank and "Mike the Psycho" when I was in school at VA Tech. One weekend, Frank and Psycho didn't want to cave, but were going climbing instead.

I asked, "What's that like?"

Frank and Psycho: "Wellllll, it's a lot like caving, except it's not wet. And it's not muddy. And it's not cold. And it's not dark. And it's not blah blah blah..." (you get the idea)

 

I got to go along, and I think I went caving all of 3 more times in my life after that. Frank became my climbing mentor just as he had been my caving mentor. And he sandbagged me on my first leads just as he had sandbagged me into being the first human into some pretty tiny spaces underground. So clearly, it was Frank Gibson.

RIP Frank. :cry:

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Anatoli Boukreev, the only person who had their shit together on Everest in 96, he saved multiple lives and then got villified in the media.

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that awesome bike he had that I rode more than him.

 

Just how many times did you ride HIM? Sicko.

 

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