greeneggs Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Has anyone climbed the north ridge route this month(May)? Four of us will be there to attempt the route beginning Wed May 28th and we're wondering what condition the crevasses and route are, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_like_sun Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 I'm hoping to head up there that weekend as well. Â If anyone has information on the approach conditions and general state of the glacier that would be fantastic!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 you guys better post a TR. Need some porn to look at I am interested in heading up there next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_like_sun Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 Hoping this hot weather opens up the road for next weekend.... Â Anyone been up or near Coleman Headwall this year?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Bump. Â I was planning on climbing the North ridge this weekend (i.e., May 31/June 1), but have an inkling its not in shape. Any pics and/or reports of conditions along the ridge would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Further to my bump above, I spoke with one of the Rangers at the Sedro Woolley office this morning (Tuesday May 27th) who advised that they only had one recent TR - May 26th climb via Coleman-Demming glaciers - "warm and wet to the top...take care in and around steep slopes". Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 isnt this a more of a late summer climb when there is ice ? otherwise I think its just a snow slog. Â Good luck if you go tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 The snow has steadily been firming up over the last week or so, but there are still large cornices and persistent weak layers present in some places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 you and jmace are both right - I'm just in denial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brambo Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 picture from Coleman-Deming route on Sat. May 31st. Looks pretty good. Note that it is probably going to snow Thu-Fri. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 (edited) Whats the status here? I was thinking of going to the North Ridge this Sun/Mon but weather looks terrible. Edited June 6, 2008 by MarkJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Anyone been up North Ridge recently who can offer some current into re: route conditions; particularly regarding the approach through the crevasse field from Hogsback or above? I'd like to give it a go August 16th weekend. Â Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Moorehead Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Any updates on conditions? I'm looking to go up this the last weekend in July. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Climbed route yesterday. Route is in really good shape. reached the ice pitches via the normal way on the right of the buttress. Looks like some people have gone via the left of the buttress but this will just add more time and is not necessary. As far as route beta goes. Go strait up. There is a small traverese on the summit to avoid a HUGE shrund which is worth walking to the edge of to look into since it is big enough to fit many houses into. To exit the ridge to the summit dogleg very slightly right (20 meters) and go strait up the steep wall to the summit plateau. The route is in icy shape where it should be, and perfect hard snow where it should be. I used bomber ice screw belays on the ice pitches and single ice axe belays above that with solid picket placements for running pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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