Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   12/08/21

      Thanks for visiting Cascadeclimbers.com.   Yep, we are still going!    Just put a new coat of paint on the site. Still the same old community of climbers, skiers, and people who love to get outdoors. Hope you had a great 2021, and wish you the best for 2022 and beyond.  Thanks again for stopping by.
Sign in to follow this  
Kevin_climber

[TR] Mount Hood (old climb / new report) - Black Spider - Cerebral Dream 5/12/2008

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mount Hood (old climb / new report) - Black Spider - Cerebral Dream

 

Date: 5/12/2008

 

Trip Report:

I am writing a belated report on the Black Spider on Mount Hood for informational purposes. Wayne Wallace is aware of the climb. Years ago I met up with Steve Elder to attempt a new line on the Black Spider on the East Face of Mount Hood. We approached from Timberline and walked to the base of the face in July. There are a few crevasses at the base that need to be negotiated and a few big openings that are best avoided.

 

The climb, as I recall, starts with typical Mt. Hood crumbled rock. With ice axes, crampons, plastic mountaineering boots, helmets, we started to scramble up the face. We decided to climb the central rib that is centered on the face. The central rib starts the lowest down and goes nearly directly up the middle of the face in a "straight" line. To the right, there is a snow chute, which has been done a couple times. To the left, there is a vertical face, which I presume has yet to be climbed. Anyway, as expected the entire face is prone to rock fall.

 

The rock is lousy and comes off in your hand (looser than Yocum ridge which I have climbed in August, that is for another day). After scrambling up low 5th class rock for awhile, you reach 30 feet of a nice crack in a blank face. With crampons scraping and hands jammed in the crack, you climb up the 5.7 crack. The crack ends at a stance where you have a single 5.9 move with crampons to reach flatter ground for a few feet. You can bring whatever protection you want for the crack, since it is one of the few places that protection might actually hold.

 

A belay with your as* overhanging a big drop can be found there. You lead up to the right across "chalk" which is yellow and loose (probably sulfur of some sort). Then you climb up a vertical chimney which is straightforward with crampons because the points of the crampons have good purchase in the frozen mud. A good belay can be found at the top of the chimney although wiggling the rope results in dodge ball for the 2nd on the rope.

 

The climb continues up the rib until you can step onto the steep snow and casually climb to the summit.

 

In all, the route is not generally recommend due to the low quality of the rock, lack of protection, among other things. I climbed Yocum Ridge the following week (August)which was considerably more straightforward in comparison.

 

Kevin

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kevin, where exactly on the BS face does your line travel? Are we talking about the central rib just left of Arachnophobia??

 

Good on you guys for tackling that daunting aspect of Hood, in summer no less - and thanks for sharing your info!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If Arachnophobia is the one climbed by Wayne Wallace, et al., then I am familiar with its location - Wayne once pointed it out to me (think it had a crux of thin ice on a vertical portion). Thus, you are correct that it would be the central rib to the left of Arachnophobia.

 

Summer makes for an "interesting" time to climb Mt. Hood rock. At least it cuts down on the need for carrying excessive rock protection.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I drew it in as the Elder /Russell In the Black Spider Topo in the Oregon Page

Hard to believe they climbed it in summer.

 

Hey Kevin! Heard from Steve at all lately?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow,

I remember my unsuccessful 3-4 attempts on Yocum. You guys are in a different league. I remember looking up at the Black Spider thnking that it looks insane. Makes me envious I don't still live up there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wow,

I remember my unsuccessful 3-4 attempts on Yocum. You guys are in a different league.

hyper-functional retards? :lmao:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wayne, yes you drew it in as Elder / Russell. I have not heard from Steve for many years, though a couple years ago he mailed me some slides. Sometimes I wonder about Steve, though have not been able to find an e-mail address for him. He is a good climber with the laid back Kiwi attitude.

 

Climbing it late July is a bit off-season, though I have no intention on repeating that route. I might go repeat your Arachnophobia in the winter time when icy (I presume you climbed it when covered with some ice that keeps the rocks from moving).

 

The strange thing was the weekend after we climbed Yocum (August) and it was relaxing in comparison. The 1st Gendarme was a bit wild though, holding onto the ridge with your arm pits and grabbing as much mountain as you can. The ending rappel rock is very solid actually. But anyway, I think later that August Steve went back and soloed Yocum without any rapells (ridge all the way to the end) and brought a short rope though not sure if he used it.

 

However, the best was running into Wayne on Mt. Hood and getting the number for Marcus. He's done lots of stuff around the house, very helpful. May put in a sauna, and I'll have Marcus do it all.

 

As of late though, I've mostly been doing climbing expeditions to Alaska (3 times) and Peru (5+ times) and Argentina (once).

 

Kevin

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to hear about Yocum in the summer? Sounds crazy and fun. I've tried to get her two winters in a row, but encountered unfavorable weather. Going to be speding 4 days up on Hood this next week. Approaching from cloud cap, moving up cathedral ridge, camping at the base of the queens chair, scouting yocum and desceding cooper spur. Should be a good time. Anybody been up there recently? I live in Tacoma, but I've heard visability is pretty bad with all the smoke for the CA wildfires?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Descending Cooper Spur this weekend ??? Check the recent pics here and be sure to post a TR if you survive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We survived. Words to the wise, Cathedral Ridge (like Oregon High says) is best climbed when covered in snow. Lot's of choss. Definitely knew I was in the cascades. Everything is open on the N. side. Didn't see anyone for four days. Left from Cloud Cap on Tuesday. The first challenge was crossing the Elliot drainage. There was massive flood damage this winter. Someone had fixed ropes on either side of the crossing, but it was still hairy. I'll try and post some pics tomorrow. All and all it was a good four days in the mountains.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is additional damage in the Elliot this year piled on what happened two winters ago? Last year in order to get around it, we hiked up, and crossed at the base of the glacier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Local news tonight had the guy getting hit in the head by a mellon size rock and tumbling onto the elliot a thousand feet below...

 

His 20 yr old kid was with him when it happened...

 

d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's really terrible. I was out on the N side tues-Fri and didn't see another soul until we crossed the elliot drainage, and we saw people hiking on the moraine. It's definitely a dangerous time of year to be climbing, I am very sorry for his family and son. The only bit of hope in it all, he was out in the mountains doing something he loved. RIP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×