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eric8

Local overhanging cracks

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11worth:

Radio Sex

Lazy Boy

Never Never Crack

 

Isn't there a really hard crack...12c or d up really high in the Icicle. Don't have my guides on this side of the pond but there is a 5.9 up there thats supposed to be good.

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Tim,

 

Looking in the guidebook, I'm guessing that the 5.9 is "The Renovator" and the hard crack is "The Meat Cleaver" 5.12D. Both Charlie Naismith FA's in 1995.

 

I've never checked them out but have seen the renovator from afar - it's a long way straight up the hill above the climber's lot.

 

Not sure if these are the routes that you are thinking of or not.

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Thanks guys, keep them coming. Sorry about the grade restriction I am looking for routes to get pumped silly and make me commit, make me wonder if I have the juice to place...routes that hurt. But you can post easier ones too or routes I won't be touching this year or next ie never never crack.

 

I must be remebering things wrong because I don't remeber grand daddy overhang to be overhanging at all or I have been spending to much time bouldering so my definition of overhanging is skewed. And Easter Overhang felt like 1 overhanging move

 

Anyone done Rising Expectations at Smith?

 

Sol I ran into Mrs. Sol the other month at Index she said you where down in the desert sounds like quite the trip you got going. I should quite my job.

 

 

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Have you been to Indian Creek before? Not too many overhanging cracks there, but the slippery rock (as compared to granite) and lack of footholds seem to make everything seem really steep to me...

 

Not very local I realize, but it seems like the style of climbing that you are looking for in this thread.

Edited by tradhead

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tradhead -

 

You got it right. Also, you might check out the Nose on Castle Rock. Also there are a two routes 10c and 11b I think to the left. The 11b is the direct finish. Classic routes but my route memory is starting to go down the crapper. Can't remember the names.

 

Big Daddy Overhang is the 12b Overhange at Nightmare Rock and Grandaddy is the leftward traverse under the rook...at least I think?

 

One of my favorites, although is Yosemite, is Red Zinger at the Cookie. Amazing stuff. Love that route.

 

How many people have done Flight of the Challenger at Murrin or Zombie Roof in the Smoke Bluffs? Both look really good but fairly difficult.

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Has any one done any of the harder routes to the left or right of Brass Balls on lower castle? I don't have a guide book but i think the names are along the liens of "Shrieks of the Mutilated" and "Screams of the Humiliated" and the ratings are 11+ to 12-? Look like short roof cracks more then sustained climbing?

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The guidebook claims that the crux of Zombie Roof is pulling the lip so you could at least work the roof and aid (like C1) it to get your gear back.

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What about a solid list of of local cracks in the mid 11 to mid 13's? It would be a nice list to see!

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Big Daddy Overhang is the 12b Overhange at Nightmare Rock and Grandaddy ...

 

How many people have done Flight of the Challenger at Murrin or Zombie Roof in the Smoke Bluffs? Both look really good but fairly difficult.

 

Redpointed all three of these climbs a couple years back. Big Daddy involved an easy 10- slab traverse (bolts), an awkwark boulder problem followed by barn doorish (albiet excellent) thin crack finale. BDO is not that much harder than Sentry Box and derserving more traffic. Zombie Roof: I would highly recommend taping up on this one. Actually, I would say taping is a given on most difficult roof cracks; unless you want to have only one go per month. On ZR there is a crux half way out the roof and also turning the lip. The other crux is just placing gear of course. Of the three you mentioned Tim, Flight of the Challenger is by far the best. This climb is just simply amazing. Best route at the pet wall...not sure, cause I have only climbed a few others. But, it is for sure the best hard crack there. The first forty feet are way steep crack and face climbing. The hardest crux comes after a jug stance where the angle becomes vertical. You can place some solid CU's and then bust the moves. Suppose I shouldn't elaborate on the somewhat hidden hold... but anyway, after that there is a very index reminiscent flaring corner with tips in the back. You don't really have to jam all that much. Mostly, just do the foot in the crack twist thing. The last difficult part comes at the end. Remember to bring a fist size piece...

 

 

 

 

Edited by bigwallben

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A few more to add that have not been mentioned: Ride of the Valkaries (Icicle Creek), Shriek of the Mutilated (Tumwater), Maybe Maybe Crack (Icicle Creek), Stevens Pass Motel (Tumwater)

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Fun Forrest (Exit 47), on the far right crag are two overhanging thin cracks. One is 11b and the other is 12b if I remember correctly. We hopped on the 11b one, it was quite good. Maybe 10 to 15 degrees overhanging and leaning to the left. Jambs varied from fingers to thin hands. Make sure you tape up first, some crystals in the crack. The 12b one is friggen hard, neither of us could even do the entry move. I forgot the names, one of them is called Clash City Crack I believe.

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Physical Graffiti at Broughtons Bluff in Troutdale, OR. Guide calls it 10.d. I asked the FA about it….he said they graded it 10.d because at the time that was the hardest grade. I think its 11.a……it has fooled me three times…..

 

the thing is sick but to short to be considered an 11a

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