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gt5816v

[TR] Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route 4/27/2008

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Trip: Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route

 

Date: 4/27/2008

 

Trip Report:

So Dan F and I tried it again. The West Face rematch! This time we got the last pitch in with lots of time to spare.

 

I had the first pitch:

joshwface1fj9.jpg

 

joshwface2rj8.jpg

 

joshwface3jq4.jpg

 

joshwface4ul9.jpg

 

Dan jugging up:

img6923lf4.jpg

 

img6926xp2.jpg

 

img6942ix0.jpg

 

Dan leading p2 and p3. I got p4 and Dan had p5 :crazy:

img6946vq3.jpg

 

img6947df7.jpg

 

img6949ac4.jpg

 

Dan rapping off:

img6966kr5.jpg

 

img6973to9xz9.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

Small rack, offset nuts ~20 draws and 2 ropes. ****Stick clip****

Edited by gt5816v

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Good work fellas, that one's been on my list for a little while now, and seeing the pictures is a good reminder that I need to get out there and give it a try! Thanks for posting.

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Thanks. It's a great route with tons of exposure. Just watch the loose rocks in the cave.

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thumbs_up.gif

 

Great work - it's a fun route! By the way, is that a haulbag in your 5th photo down?

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Aye, it's a little guy (BD Stubby). Being so overhung it's a really easy line to haul. Gives the leader something to do while the second cleans too :)

 

thumbs_up.gif

 

Great work - it's a fun route! By the way, is that a haulbag in your 5th photo down?

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bivy in the cave next time!

great idea there, dan - wanna enact it w/ me? been trying to talk some fool into bivying on the monkey for awhile...

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well, it's definitely on my list of things to do in this life. I do snore pretty loud sometimes though, or so my partners allege, so you've been warned.

 

bivying on the mighty beacon is up there too.

 

basically I think I'm just into the idea of camping + exposure.

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Sounds like you need to sleep on a portaledge, perhaps in Zion on Moonlight.... ;)

 

basically I think I'm just into the idea of camping + exposure.

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Stop the presses!

 

Is that a "Stick Clip" hanging down under yer sac dere Dan? img6949ac4.jpg

 

OMG! :blush:

 

Nice TR!~ Now, next on the agenda - when are you folks gonna do the multi-route linkup? Ie, do N face then West face, or east face/North face kind of thing same day?

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FWG, nice link. I just talked to Dave yesterday. Been a while since I've seen Bob and John though. :blush:

 

from Daves site: route.jpg

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you're darn right that's a stick clip, Bill. homemade with a dowel rod and some duct tape. if you want to borrow it sometime, let me know.

 

there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy.

 

it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level.

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bivy in the cave next time!

some buddies of mine spent saturday night last weekend in the cave. Got some hilarious drunken phone calls from them during the clean up auction. apparently the wind picked up a bit more than they were expecting.

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The bivy in the cave has some issues. It is not a good place to bail from unless you fix to the summit. It has mice and the dung of mice. It is a natural spark plug in lightning storms.

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you're darn right that's a stick clip, Bill. homemade with a dowel rod and some duct tape. if you want to borrow it sometime, let me know.

 

:lmao:

 

there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy.

 

I think when the 2/3rd pitch got rebolted, there is now a section of mandatory free climbing which I don't remember being there before. I showed up in shit shoes and learned this the hard way the first time. Having rock shoes or a stick clip alleviates this problem.

 

it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level.
Well, about time you got on the aid climbers bus! BTW, my stick clip is prettier than your stick clip! :lmao:

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Climbed it in January 1997 (cold) with Clay and Nate from OSU (now have lost track of these guys) and bivied over-night in the cave, post belay anchor replacement by Chris Purnel (spelling?, RIP) pre-all other old gear replacement. The rivets and button heads were kind of scary, you could take some out by hand for inspection then easily replace! I found a headlamp in the Cave (new petzel at that time) please describe the sticker on the battery pack and I can get it back to you as it is old and out of date, but still works good.

Shapp

Edited by shapp

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there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy.

 

it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level.

 

If this is the spot I am thinking of you can get past it with a hook. I've climbed this route twice and used a hook both times--no free climbing

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Shapp, Nate is still around. I've seen him every now and again(or at least heard of sightings). He is on here occasionally too.

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