Jump to content

[TR] Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route 4/27/2008


gt5816v
 Share

Recommended Posts

Trip: Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route

 

Date: 4/27/2008

 

Trip Report:

So Dan F and I tried it again. The West Face rematch! This time we got the last pitch in with lots of time to spare.

 

I had the first pitch:

joshwface1fj9.jpg

 

joshwface2rj8.jpg

 

joshwface3jq4.jpg

 

joshwface4ul9.jpg

 

Dan jugging up:

img6923lf4.jpg

 

img6926xp2.jpg

 

img6942ix0.jpg

 

Dan leading p2 and p3. I got p4 and Dan had p5 :crazy:

img6946vq3.jpg

 

img6947df7.jpg

 

img6949ac4.jpg

 

Dan rapping off:

img6966kr5.jpg

 

img6973to9xz9.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

Small rack, offset nuts ~20 draws and 2 ropes. ****Stick clip****

Edited by gt5816v
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aye, it's a little guy (BD Stubby). Being so overhung it's a really easy line to haul. Gives the leader something to do while the second cleans too :)

 

thumbs_up.gif

 

Great work - it's a fun route! By the way, is that a haulbag in your 5th photo down?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, it's definitely on my list of things to do in this life. I do snore pretty loud sometimes though, or so my partners allege, so you've been warned.

 

bivying on the mighty beacon is up there too.

 

basically I think I'm just into the idea of camping + exposure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stop the presses!

 

Is that a "Stick Clip" hanging down under yer sac dere Dan? img6949ac4.jpg

 

OMG! :blush:

 

Nice TR!~ Now, next on the agenda - when are you folks gonna do the multi-route linkup? Ie, do N face then West face, or east face/North face kind of thing same day?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you're darn right that's a stick clip, Bill. homemade with a dowel rod and some duct tape. if you want to borrow it sometime, let me know.

 

there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy.

 

it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bivy in the cave next time!

some buddies of mine spent saturday night last weekend in the cave. Got some hilarious drunken phone calls from them during the clean up auction. apparently the wind picked up a bit more than they were expecting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you're darn right that's a stick clip, Bill. homemade with a dowel rod and some duct tape. if you want to borrow it sometime, let me know.

 

:lmao:

 

there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy.

 

I think when the 2/3rd pitch got rebolted, there is now a section of mandatory free climbing which I don't remember being there before. I showed up in shit shoes and learned this the hard way the first time. Having rock shoes or a stick clip alleviates this problem.

 

it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level.
Well, about time you got on the aid climbers bus! BTW, my stick clip is prettier than your stick clip! :lmao:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Climbed it in January 1997 (cold) with Clay and Nate from OSU (now have lost track of these guys) and bivied over-night in the cave, post belay anchor replacement by Chris Purnel (spelling?, RIP) pre-all other old gear replacement. The rivets and button heads were kind of scary, you could take some out by hand for inspection then easily replace! I found a headlamp in the Cave (new petzel at that time) please describe the sticker on the battery pack and I can get it back to you as it is old and out of date, but still works good.

Shapp

Edited by shapp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy.

 

it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level.

 

If this is the spot I am thinking of you can get past it with a hook. I've climbed this route twice and used a hook both times--no free climbing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reachy bolt is right off of the 3rd anchor on the small ledge. It's just out of reach top stepping the left anchor bolt. There are several good reaches but that's the only one that requires a stick clip/hook move...

 

You can read about my first attempt on this route here:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=738892

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...