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Coolest Moderate Climbs on Earth


layton

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As far as ice goes, I'd put Guiness Gully as the ultimate classic.

 

It was a fun climb, but I am not sure it falls under the ultimate classic category. Too much walking inbetween pitches.

 

Yeah, probably an overstatement. I let my mind bend the response due to the fact that people really talk about Guiness Gully as "the WI4 to do if you're in the area".

 

The view from the top pitch is nice, though, if the weather is good. ;)

2346790779_0b9afbeba8_o.jpg

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Dr. Layton: (enters) Well son, I'm afraid I've got bad news...

 

Sweatin' Out: It's okay doctor, I'm not afraid anymore and I need to know... (pauses to wipe tear)

 

Dr. Layton: Well, I've looked at your charts, and well, there is no easy way to say this (takes a breath)... It appears that you're a shitty climber. :laf:

 

 

Maybe I missed it on here already, but I had a pretty good time on Backbone Ridge, and for many here that would be considered a moderate.

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Best free solo: Tiptoe Ridge Arapiles, Oz. @ an entire 1300 feet of vertical moderate class 5 on near granite hardness juggy rock to a small 5.5 summit pinnacle overlooking the valley below. I do not believe there is a spec of loose dirt or rock on it.

 

Breathtakingly and stunningly enjoyable.

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No way it's 400' Max, could be though, (going with what Bob told me, I can look at the guidebook later) but that side pic makes it looks chossier than my memory too:-) I think it was an all time high for that feeling of flow, where you are so in the zone it's crazy.

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modern_times_1.jpg

 

Modern Times crux. Not my picture, I grabbed it off the web a while back and don't even remember where I got it.

 

God damn I love Gunks climbing! I gotta get back out there. Did you get on that route when you were there? I remeber right where this dude is my feet cutting out and swinging onto my arms and thinking, 'this is 5.8?'.

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