Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
layton

Coolest Moderate Climbs on Earth

Recommended Posts

If I go by Mattp definition of "moderate" I'd have to add Shockley's Ceiling (Gunks), Irene's Arete (Tetons) and the E. Ridge of Edith Cavell in the Canadian Rockies.

 

If I go with Layton's definition I'll just add my ever growing wish list:

 

Lotus Flower Tower

Mt. Robson - Kain Face

Mt. Temple - East Ridge

Mt. Hunter - West Ridge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You guys want to help out the non NW posters and tell us what those evidently so famous they don't need names routes are?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You guys want to help out the non NW posers and tell us what those evidently so famous they don't need names routes are?

 

edited for accuracy - you had an extra "t" in there

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite all the harmless bickering, thanks for the list. I've got some more climbs to add to mine.

 

Only one I can think of to add:

 

This House of Sky - C. Rockies

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite the fact that many here despise Colorado, anybody would love these moderates:

 

Yellow Spur in Eldo

 

J Crack and Mainliner at Lumpy

 

Rocky Mountain National Park:

 

Casual Route on the Diamond (climbing to 10a on one of the best alpine walls anywhere)

 

S Face of Petit Grepon (5.8+ to a tiny summit)

 

Sykes Sickle on Spearhead (some of the most exciting 5.9 you will ever do)

 

Whatever climbs the Stone Nudes are on in any particular year :grlaf:

Edited by matt_warfield

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I should say my favorite moderate climb is the [insert big name climb], with confidence that it is bigger, harder, and/or gnarlier than anything you other poseurs are likely to be climbing.

 

Instead, I'll suggest The Tooth (fantastic beginners route), West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (short alpine scramble with great ambiance), and High Exposure (historic Gunks classic 5.6 with about forty feet of the coolest 5.6 anywhere).

 

MattP, I love you man!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shoshone Direct 5 pitches, 5.9

Flathead SF/Ballard-Evringham Route 10 pitches, 5.10b

The Red Tower on the Prow, 7 pitches 5.11a

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't call any of these "moderate" but by Mike's criteria these are some anyway.

 

Rostrum - Yos

Astroman - Yos

Steck-Salathe -Yos

Crest Jewel - Yos

Good Book - Yos

Moratorium to E Butt - Yos

Kaukulator - Yos

1096 - Yos

Cream - Yos

OZ w/ Gram - Yos

Don Juan Wall - Needles

Atlantis - Needles

Thin Ice - Needles

Igor Unchained - Needles

Airy Interlude - Needles

Abracadaver - Stronghold

Lizard Marmalade Direct - Lemmon

Fine Jade - Castle Valley

Middle Parallel Space - Vedauwoo

Mainstreet - Vedauwoo

Spectreman - Vedauwoo

Horn's Mother - Vedauwoo

Boardwalk - Vedauwoo

Imaginary Voyage - Josh

Wangerbanger - Josh

Heart of Darkness - Josh

Coarse and Buggy - Josh

The Cruise or Scenic Cruise var. - Black Canyon

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spotter: What is the climb you posted the pic of? That looks great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
... but I've never had nightmares about them and while I was climbing them I never felt like I was in trouble, so I'd say they were moderate overall. For alpine climbs the location (how perty and remote) matters almost as much as the climbing.

 

 

I like your definition.

 

Here are some of my favorite "moderate" climbs that I've done, and that I think most relatively experienced climbers could do. Some of these were near my limit at the time that I climbed them.

 

Bugaboos

- Snowpatch route

- Beckey-Chouinard

- McTech Arete

 

Squamish

- Exasperator

- Angels Crest

- Penny Lane

- Climb and Punishment

- High Mountain Woody

- the highball V0 on the Black Dyke boulder

- Garfield

 

Some other stuff

- South ridge of Mt Gimli (Valhallas)

- NE Buttress of Slesse

- Brewer Buttress (Castle Mtn, Can Rockies)

- The Dream (Skaha)

- Illusion Dweller (Joshua tree)

- the orange taped V4 at Cliffhanger Coquitlam ;-)

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To me moderate is below 5.11, below A3, below WI5, below V2

 

I've limited my list to multi-pitch routes which I have done

 

BC

-Grand Wall

-Exasperator

-Diedre

-NE butt of Slesse

 

WA

-Dreamer

-Outer Space

-Stanley/Burgner on Prussik

-West butt of Stuart

 

OR

-Zebra Zion

-West Face to Pioneer route on Monkey Face

-Young Warriors

-Gandolf's Grip

 

UT

-Kor Ingols on Castleton

-JahMan on Sis Superior

-Lighting bolt cracks on N. 6 shooter

-Ancient Art

-Finger of Fate on the Titan

-Spaceshot

-Moonlight Buttresss

 

NV

-Epinepherine

-Eagle Dance

-Frogland

-Resolution Arete

-Rock Warrior

-Dream of Wild Turkeys

-Sour Mash

-Triassic Sands

-Night Crawler

-Birdhunter Buttress

-Crimson Chrysalis

-Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab

-Celtic Cracks

 

CA

-Regular NW face of Half Dome

-East Butt of Middle Cathedral

-NE butt of Higher Cathedral

-East Butt of El Cap

-Snakedike

-Stecke Salathe

-Braille Book

-The Nose of El Cap

-Salathe Route of El Cap

-3rd Pillar of Dana

-Royal Arches

-Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday

 

I am sure there are a few I missed but that is a good start

 

 

Edited by texplorer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Don't think I would call the Casual Route on Longs a moderate.

 

Well shit, lots of people are posting 5.11's so it has to be on the list! Under the criteria I could have put Yellow Wall or Pervertical but Casual was a stroke of genius (or luck) and is a mandatory "moderate" for those who like splitter vertical granite in an alpine setting.

 

But I also agree to the extent that the sea level 5.10 sport climbers that go for 10a at 14,000 ft. will get their asses kicked. I think the consensus is that 10a feels like 11a at that altitude and that is without considering the approach or alpine start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Got a photo of the crux on Modern Times?

 

No I don't, I wish I did, but I can say that is the airiest 5.8++ moves I have ever done, that is for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
As far as ice goes, I'd put Guiness Gully as the ultimate classic.

 

It was a fun climb, but I am not sure it falls under the ultimate classic category. Too much walking inbetween pitches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×