counterfeitfake Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 dreamer is the best moderate rock climb i've done in the NW I was just gonna say, Dreamer. Dreamer is ILL. Pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Levitation 29 in RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 If I go by Mattp definition of "moderate" I'd have to add Shockley's Ceiling (Gunks), Irene's Arete (Tetons) and the E. Ridge of Edith Cavell in the Canadian Rockies. If I go with Layton's definition I'll just add my ever growing wish list: Lotus Flower Tower Mt. Robson - Kain Face Mt. Temple - East Ridge Mt. Hunter - West Ridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 You guys want to help out the non NW posters and tell us what those evidently so famous they don't need names routes are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 You guys want to help out the non NW posers and tell us what those evidently so famous they don't need names routes are? edited for accuracy - you had an extra "t" in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdk Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Despite all the harmless bickering, thanks for the list. I've got some more climbs to add to mine. Only one I can think of to add: This House of Sky - C. Rockies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Paddle Flake Direct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Toby on the West Face of the Cima Ovest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 (edited) Despite the fact that many here despise Colorado, anybody would love these moderates: Yellow Spur in Eldo J Crack and Mainliner at Lumpy Rocky Mountain National Park: Casual Route on the Diamond (climbing to 10a on one of the best alpine walls anywhere) S Face of Petit Grepon (5.8+ to a tiny summit) Sykes Sickle on Spearhead (some of the most exciting 5.9 you will ever do) Whatever climbs the Stone Nudes are on in any particular year Edited May 1, 2008 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirwoofalot Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I should say my favorite moderate climb is the [insert big name climb], with confidence that it is bigger, harder, and/or gnarlier than anything you other poseurs are likely to be climbing. Instead, I'll suggest The Tooth (fantastic beginners route), West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (short alpine scramble with great ambiance), and High Exposure (historic Gunks classic 5.6 with about forty feet of the coolest 5.6 anywhere). MattP, I love you man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Shoshone Direct 5 pitches, 5.9 Flathead SF/Ballard-Evringham Route 10 pitches, 5.10b The Red Tower on the Prow, 7 pitches 5.11a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I wouldn't call any of these "moderate" but by Mike's criteria these are some anyway. Rostrum - Yos Astroman - Yos Steck-Salathe -Yos Crest Jewel - Yos Good Book - Yos Moratorium to E Butt - Yos Kaukulator - Yos 1096 - Yos Cream - Yos OZ w/ Gram - Yos Don Juan Wall - Needles Atlantis - Needles Thin Ice - Needles Igor Unchained - Needles Airy Interlude - Needles Abracadaver - Stronghold Lizard Marmalade Direct - Lemmon Fine Jade - Castle Valley Middle Parallel Space - Vedauwoo Mainstreet - Vedauwoo Spectreman - Vedauwoo Horn's Mother - Vedauwoo Boardwalk - Vedauwoo Imaginary Voyage - Josh Wangerbanger - Josh Heart of Darkness - Josh Coarse and Buggy - Josh The Cruise or Scenic Cruise var. - Black Canyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Spotter: What is the climb you posted the pic of? That looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Snootli Express 15 pitches 5.10b Bella Coola Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Don't think I would call the Casual Route on Longs a moderate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadie Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 ... but I've never had nightmares about them and while I was climbing them I never felt like I was in trouble, so I'd say they were moderate overall. For alpine climbs the location (how perty and remote) matters almost as much as the climbing. I like your definition. Here are some of my favorite "moderate" climbs that I've done, and that I think most relatively experienced climbers could do. Some of these were near my limit at the time that I climbed them. Bugaboos - Snowpatch route - Beckey-Chouinard - McTech Arete Squamish - Exasperator - Angels Crest - Penny Lane - Climb and Punishment - High Mountain Woody - the highball V0 on the Black Dyke boulder - Garfield Some other stuff - South ridge of Mt Gimli (Valhallas) - NE Buttress of Slesse - Brewer Buttress (Castle Mtn, Can Rockies) - The Dream (Skaha) - Illusion Dweller (Joshua tree) - the orange taped V4 at Cliffhanger Coquitlam ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 (edited) To me moderate is below 5.11, below A3, below WI5, below V2 I've limited my list to multi-pitch routes which I have done BC -Grand Wall -Exasperator -Diedre -NE butt of Slesse WA -Dreamer -Outer Space -Stanley/Burgner on Prussik -West butt of Stuart OR -Zebra Zion -West Face to Pioneer route on Monkey Face -Young Warriors -Gandolf's Grip UT -Kor Ingols on Castleton -JahMan on Sis Superior -Lighting bolt cracks on N. 6 shooter -Ancient Art -Finger of Fate on the Titan -Spaceshot -Moonlight Buttresss NV -Epinepherine -Eagle Dance -Frogland -Resolution Arete -Rock Warrior -Dream of Wild Turkeys -Sour Mash -Triassic Sands -Night Crawler -Birdhunter Buttress -Crimson Chrysalis -Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab -Celtic Cracks CA -Regular NW face of Half Dome -East Butt of Middle Cathedral -NE butt of Higher Cathedral -East Butt of El Cap -Snakedike -Stecke Salathe -Braille Book -The Nose of El Cap -Salathe Route of El Cap -3rd Pillar of Dana -Royal Arches -Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday I am sure there are a few I missed but that is a good start Edited May 7, 2008 by texplorer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 Don't think I would call the Casual Route on Longs a moderate. Well shit, lots of people are posting 5.11's so it has to be on the list! Under the criteria I could have put Yellow Wall or Pervertical but Casual was a stroke of genius (or luck) and is a mandatory "moderate" for those who like splitter vertical granite in an alpine setting. But I also agree to the extent that the sea level 5.10 sport climbers that go for 10a at 14,000 ft. will get their asses kicked. I think the consensus is that 10a feels like 11a at that altitude and that is without considering the approach or alpine start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 Stuart has an East Buttress? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 Got a photo of the crux on Modern Times? No I don't, I wish I did, but I can say that is the airiest 5.8++ moves I have ever done, that is for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 As far as ice goes, I'd put Guiness Gully as the ultimate classic. It was a fun climb, but I am not sure it falls under the ultimate classic category. Too much walking inbetween pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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