Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

best of cc.com [TR] Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 4/12/2008

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier


Date: 4/12/2008


Trip Report:

After a bus to and a high-speed train from Grenoble, a lovely evening in Paris, a two-hour flight to Amsterdam, a five-hour wait in Amsterdam created by flight delay, and an eleven-hour flight to Seattle, Ryan was nice enough to nab me from SEATAC Friday evening circa seven. Four hours after leaving me at home, most of which I spent drinking Génépi liquor and raving to my roommates about France and Les Hautes-Alpes, he reappeared with his new kick-ass ski buddy Monika and they were ready to go to Leavenworth.


There was a bit of discussion about what route to ski. Colchuck Peak's NBC was mentioned, but I thought that a hot day and early sun would guarantee a death slurpee there. We needed to get high and find shelter. I knew just the line for the job: Ice Cliff Glacier: so protected, so high, so steep, so lovely.


What better way to cure jet lag than a long approach after a short nap?


Ryan skis toward Mt Stuart after a pleasant ~12 km approach from Icicle Creek Road.



Mt Stuart: the Ice Cliff Glacier and its couloir are hiding in the shadows to the left of the summit and false summit


We had some fun playing on the blue ice of the glacier...


Monika enjoys some ice - we didn't have to climb this, but it was good to avoid exposure below a menacing serac.



This chunk of ice required a small amount of air time on the descent.


When Casey and I skied the couloir two years ago, it took a good edge, but it was none too soft. This time we found chunky pow that made for some wickedly fun steep skiing.



Monika and Ryan get at the cornice, while I offer them a rope between kicking snow onto them and taking pictures.



Monika and Ryan approach the true summit.



Monika is a ripper; she's so good that she levitates over vertical rocks on her skis.


La trace raconte l'histoire...


No, actually, she was on rappel, as Ryan is here. He was just holding her rope. He didn't hold my rope. Jerk.



The snow was incredible.



Ryan finds his groove.



Wonderful steep turns down the whole couloir!



In case you can't tell, Monika is shredding the steeps.



Ryan enjoys his turn on the same.



Ice cliff bulge from above...



...and from below.


This route is definitely a steep skiing classic. The Stuart Range is holding a ton of snow this spring. Everybody go bag some lines!


Triple Culos?



I have lots of material from the Alps; so much that it's overwhelming. Coming soon... after I do some work.





Gear Notes:

Carried and used 1 metric shit-tonne of gear; it was heavy.


Approach Notes:

The Cascades kicked my ass after sipping expressos in the Alps.



Sky and Ryan au Refuge d'Argentière two weeks ago. We're here; we're there; we ski steeps everywhere.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this