Favorite Alpine Rock Routes in the Sierras

[TimL]

On the way down to the Valley this fall, I'm thinking about making a side trip to climb in the Sierras. So I'm trying to figure out a couple of good routes to do. I've checked the Supertopo page, but I'm looking for first hand recommendations on must do routes.

 

Thanks!

 

[Sol]

third pillar of dana for a warm-up

[eldiente]

third pillar of dana for a warm-up

 

I'd second that. Third Pillar of Dana is way fun.

[JayB]

Is the lightning hazard in the Sierra's in the summer anything like the lightning hazard in the Colorado Rockies? Can't remember a single alpine route that I climbed when I wasn't looking over my shoulder and wondering when the bolts would start raining down - even when the sky was clear...

[chucK]

Yep, they can definitely shorten your climbing day down there. Don't know how consistent it is though.

[Peter_Puget]

Usually much less consistent than the Rockies......but sometimes....Fishhook Arete

[Hugh Conway]

Usually much less consistent than the Rockies

 

yuppers. Palisades.

[John Frieh]

Anything on Incredible Hulk ...

[rat]

ditto all of the suggestions so far plus the harding route on mt. conness and the 50-crowded route on clyde minaret (not crowded).

 

he said "this fall". fewer t-storms late august/early september. might want to mull over the permit situation if you want to do anything in the whitney or temple crag areas.

[pink]

Anything on Incredible Hulk ...

 

for sure

[plexus]

My only experience is in Tulomne in September and I don't even remember it even raining once.

 

I'm actually heading to the Palisades area for a week in August. Looks to be a lot of fun. Curious if I should try to reserve backcountry permits now.

[mneagle]

Temple Crag - Sun Ribbon Arete 5.10a. I wish I could have lassoed the horn. After several tries we just decided to rap into the notch and climb the other side.

 

[MATT_B]

Cathedral peak is one of my favorites but it can get crounded. Lots of other peaks right in the same area that can be done in the same day. Mathes crest is another good one. Look up bear creek spire too (south of the park). Weather usually starts to take a turn some time in september. It is more often good than not but can be hit or miss that time of year. Tioga pass usually closes some time in October. Give us an idea of difficulty, length and location (Sierras are a big range) your looking for and we could probably get you a better list.

[TimL]

Already climbed Cathedral, Eichorn and Mathes Crest. They were amazing routes in an amazing area but they are the only thing we've every climbed in the Sierras.

 

What I was thinking about is to try to drive causually down the east side, can you do this from Bend, then take a side trip to climb something beautiful and classic. Maybe spend three four days somewhere that I've never been. Maybe something with a classic route (5.9/5.10) to get to know the area then something harder to pull down on. Length and difficulty are not too important. Quality is the most important.

 

Seems like a good way to go to Yosemite if you have time. I'm so tired of I-5.

 

Thanks

Edited April 13, 2008 by TimL

[Hugh Conway]

Seems like a good way to go to Yosemite if you have time. I'm so tired of I-5.

 

Most everything classic is south of Yosemite on 395 - it's a better drive up to Yosemite than one down. A fantastic area to be in.

 

[TeleRoss]

Positive Vibrations on Incredible Hulk

Hard to imagine a better piece of alpine rock anywhere. Absolutely stellar!

[TimL]

Positive Vibrations on Incredible Hulk

Hard to imagine a better piece of alpine rock anywhere. Absolutely stellar!

WOW!

[Tennessee]

After you visit the Eastern Sierra, you might instead call your trip to the Valley the "side trip"!

 

I second the vote on 3rd Pillar of Dana.

 

By the way, it's the Sierra, not the Sierras.

[Jason_Martin]

Anybody ever do Thunderbolt peak? What's the "classic" line on that thing?

 

Jason

Edited April 16, 2008 by Jason_Martin

[Farrgo]

Has anyone done any of the traverses down there Pallisades, Evolution? Worth doing if you just had a week there? Is it even possible to get a Whitney permit if you haven't reserved one way in advance?

[curtveld]

Is it even possible to get a Whitney permit if you haven't reserved one way in advance?

Link to trail reservations in the Inyo NF, including full dates. For Whitney technical routes, you want the 'NF Lone Pine Creek Overnight area'.

 

[Mal_Con]

I have done several traverses in the Sierra. The Mounties have abook that covers the whole route quite well. The Palisad portion is a fun not difficult one that gives access to the "easy" side of the Pallisades. There are only a few chossy sections most of the way is large talus. The giant cairns are long gone. You can make a return loop on the John Muir trail for shorter loops. It is also easy to just go cross country in many places and some of the large lake basins do not have trails. Bears can be a problem on the Johhn Muir as they are much more agressive than here so canisters are required.

[Jim]

third pillar of dana for a warm-up

 

Warm up? That thing beat me to a pulp last year. I would like to become a better crack climber and not have to French-free it next time. Taken to school I was.

 

 

 

[pms]

 

I've found it helpful to spend a couple days at Tuolumne or Donner beforehand. Somewhere you can sleep at altitude a couple nights before heading to the high Sierra. Great climbing down there though.

[matt_warfield]

Get Peter Croft's guide to the Sierra highcountry: "The Good, the Great, and the Awesome". It is guaranteed to delight and inform.