BDEL Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 I am moving to Leavenworth this summer to do as much climbing as possible whenever the Forest Service doesn't need me. To round out my rack I've decided to buy some small cams. I'm not much into aid climbing, and I have been trying to decide between the C3s and Metolius' Ultralight TCUs. From what I've read they are about equivalent and whichever brand you prefer (Be it BD or Metolius) makes the best TCUs. What I've noticed is the Metolius TCUs have a much larger head width due to the two cables on the sides of the cam lobes. Also, C3s seem much more flexible to me, which is appealing for use in horizontal cracks. I've never used anything that small before, any thoughts? Also, I've been comparing the new Master Cams to the C3s and feel that any difference in head width is negligible when looking at the #1 (Met Blue and BD Red). The Metolius is much more flexible than any of the TCUs and also has 4 lobes. I'm not sure if the 4 lobes is an advantage or not. I called down at Metolius and they said, for those interested in free climbing, try and wait for the 0 and 00 in the Master Cam. They aren't going to start manufacturing them until Mid-June. I think that the Metolius Master Cam would probably be the best buy for size 00 and 0 when compared to the C3 or UL-TCU, due to equivalent (with the C3) range and head size and also has increased flexibility. (Price also is $55) I would appreciate any help with my dilemma. I have no preference between brands, as I own an even mix of Metolius and BD cams as it is (Although I do live in Oregon). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 to add to your dilemma....there's the highly polarizing aliens, and also, many seem to like wild country zeroes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 i prefer zeros to c3s, but I've only climbed on c3s a couple times. I love aliens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 aliens, unless they kill you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDEL Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 I've heard good things about both Zeros and Aliens, unfortunately they aren't 20% off at REI right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 I've heard good things about both Zeros and Aliens, unfortunately they aren't 20% off at REI right now. since C3s are 20%+ more than zeroes to begin with, I'm not sure why this would drive the purchasing decision Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDEL Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 OK so I checked out the zeros and they look pretty sweet. Does the longer stem on the newer version make a big difference? There is also a larger trigger on the newer one that is appealing. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 OK so I checked out the zeros and they look pretty sweet. Does the longer stem on the newer version make a big difference? There is also a larger trigger on the newer one that is appealing. Thanks! Yes - on the smaller sizes, I found that the short stems made getting to the trigger very difficult if the cam was deep in the crack at all. I think a lot of shops don't carry the short stems for this reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 I have a full set of the long stem zero's and of course a couple sets of aliens. I just can't shake two sets of aliens but the zero's are very nice. They really seem to like Yosemite granite and stick like glue. The only problem I have with the zero's is he very small range each has. Of the four only three are really useful on the free rack and of those three they have a very narrow range each. Still good as doubles or maybe triples behind the aliens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDEL Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to go with zero long stems #3 and #4, which are the equivalent of a 00 and 0 BD. I also have a Master Cam #1. That's about all I think I'm going to buy for the small stuff (smaller than a .3 BD). Maybe I'll double up on the Zeros, but I don't think I'm going to go smaller than the #3. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 for what it's worth, i have the 4 largest WC zeroes, Z3-Z6, and I have never placed the Z3. At such a small size, the range is just miniscule (not to mention to low strength). I'd be inclined to get a double in the size of the yellow #2 metolius, or the 0.4 camalot, before getting a Z3. As for which brand, I think both metolius and BD make solid, quality gear, so the decision between TCU, master cam, & C3 is really up to your personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I've been quite happy with the one zero I own, the #6. I wish they made a couple of larger sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 the best small cams is the one having the most fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 i have both older aliens (hopefully they won't kill me)and zeroes and i've used some of the c3s. i like the aliens the best but the zeroes are just fine with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 The Metolius Master cams are the one to buy, by a nose. Offsets: Aliens still. The C3's are better than the Metolius TCS, which are pretty good and nothing to diss on at all. They all have a place, there are some great TCU placements on various routes around here. Thats my take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 So Bill, if you were to buy just one set of small cams, it would be the new Master Cams? I'm updating my original Aliens soon and think the Master Cams are the ones I'm getting but have yet to actually fondle one, let alone place any. The one thing I really hate about the original aliens is the way the trigger would get all twisted around but I'm guessing they fixed that flaw on the later versions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 They haven't changed a thing on the aliens in forever (except the heads). I have tried out a few of the first master cams in production a month or so back. As a long time alien fan I will say I was actually impressed. The master cams are so similar to aliens its probably some sort of copyright infringement (not that the pot-smokers at CCH would ever realize that). The short story is that the max cams are a good alternative to aliens. They are still not quite as versatile but then again you aren't wondering if it was a 1 or a 4 bong-hit day at the factory. If your even more of a gear junkie take a look at my buddy's extremely detailed review at RC.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 I use Lowe/Byrne ball nuts pretty relentlessly. I did a route yesterday that went with a #3 and #1 in the mix and I rarely leave the ground without a #1-3 or 4 on my rack. So at the very small end I'd say watch ebay for the Lowe/Byrne units or pick up the Trango BallNutz. They're rated 8kn except the #1 which is 4.5kn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.