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Blake

Random Tips and Tricks Thread - not spray

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Not sure if this has been mentioned or not...

 

If you are in a situation where you need to blue bag it:

Take a plastic grocery bag with handles

You can hold the handles to your hips while you do your thing

When finished, tie the ends in a knot, and bag it again

Dispose as usual

 

It definitely beat having to target a bag and pick it up!

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When you are at the top of a lead and setting up a TR, pull up a few meters of rope, tie a loop and clip it to youself before untying to thread the rope through the links.

you should do this and clip the bite to your rap/belay loop...keeps you on lead, protected by the last piece while you thread the anchor! :tup:

 

Better yet, just pass a bite of rope through the anchor, tie figure 8, clip the 8 into your belay loop, and untie the end of your rope, pull loose end through the anchor and lower.

 

don't lower through the anchors!! :mad:

 

if you're tr'ing, use qd's or build an anchor. if cleaning: rap off!!!

 

why? I dont lower through anchors often but i dont get why it would be bad other than being unnecessarily hard on the rope in some cases

 

rapring_smallfromCLIMBAZcom.jpg

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ya I prefer to rap directly off anchors, If i plan on having lots of people climbing/lowering I always build/use quickdraws

 

Ditto. Also if it is just a quick run up a route that I am not going to be working it I will go with the anchor.

 

In regards to pindudes picture, yeah I would not ever thread an aluminmum rap ring. Steel wears as well, but not as drastically and dogging some route will definitely have more wear on an anchor than say quick run up a climb. If I am working a route or trying something hard, yeah I will build an anchor.

 

The other times that I thread an anchor for TRing is when I am with a beginner. Somebody had suggested threading the anchor and building a QD anchor, I like that idea and will use it.

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When forced to stay in a hotel, make us of the complimentary stove.

 

Spring_Break_07_057.jpg

 

That is awesome :tup: :tup: :tup:

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ya I prefer to rap directly off anchors, If i plan on having lots of people climbing/lowering I always build/use quickdraws

 

Ditto. Also if it is just a quick run up a route that I am not going to be working it I will go with the anchor.

 

In regards to pindudes picture, yeah I would not ever thread an aluminmum rap ring. Steel wears as well, but not as drastically and dogging some route will definitely have more wear on an anchor than say quick run up a climb. If I am working a route or trying something hard, yeah I will build an anchor.

 

What do you guys think about threading chains around trees?

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...What do you guys think about threading chains around trees?

Depends. If you make it such that the chain remains and is in a fixed loop, you will eventually kill the tree. It may "overgrow" the chain, or it may not. But most likely it will strangle it over the years and kill it. Use webbing; the snaffles will chew through it one season and take it back to their nests for bedding. More environmentally friendly.

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It seems like a lot of the old climbs at Harrison have chains around trees, I think it is better to put rap rings into the rock than kill a tree.

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What about putting rap rings on webbing around trees?

Saves pounding shit into rock.

Saves strangling trees with chains.

 

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When you fly, carry on as much of your heavy stuff as you can. I've carried an 80 pound pack on that still fit in the overhead bin, along with two 50 pound checked bags, and I didn't pay any overage fees.

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What about putting rap rings on webbing around trees?

Saves pounding shit into rock.

Saves strangling trees with chains.

:tup:

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When you fly, carry on as much of your heavy stuff as you can. I've carried an 80 pound pack on that still fit in the overhead bin, along with two 50 pound checked bags, and I didn't pay any overage fees.

good piece of advice - i was certain they were gonna bust me on it when tryign to fly all my crap up to denali, but i was able to board w/ a ton of gear in a soft bag

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When you fly, carry on as much of your heavy stuff as you can. I've carried an 80 pound pack on that still fit in the overhead bin, along with two 50 pound checked bags, and I didn't pay any overage fees.

You'll still be taking your chances these days. When my band went to Switzerland they weighed all of my stuff including my carry on and charged me on the total weight. It's all at the discrepancy of the person behind the counter.

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Always count calories/weight of the food you bring. Pure oil is 9 calories/gram and is the highest calorie content of any edible material (the fattier the food, the better weight savings, at least in your pack, maybe not on your thighs). Peanut butter is the best actual food item, packing 6-7 calories/gram. Don't bring food that's less than 4 calories/gram. Alternating Snickers - Paydays is the fuel of champions.

 

A bit of misinformation there. Though when you burn fat in the lab, it does produce a bit more than 9 calories per gram. When your body oxidizes it (burns it for fuel at the cellular level) it is much less efficient. In terms of body function, 1 liter of oxygen will produce 5 calories from carbs, 4 calories from fat, and more than 17 with protein. Due to the long process it takes for protein to get to the oxidation point it is not as good as it might seem. A 150 lbs athlete at 10% body fat has 15 pounds of fat reserves, which is a few thousand minutes of running. Where as, carb reserves for the same athlete would be around a pound or two, or enough for about an hour and a half of jogging. Carbs are far more available for direct use for energy than fat is and when in the thin air they will be easier for your body to burn. Carb drinks while climbing are an essential for me, and GU, hard candies, and a protein bar every now and then are also a good idea. You really need to keep your fat intake to 15% or less of your total caloric intake and by all means take a high quality multi-vitamin. The nutrition quality in all our fresh fruits and vegetables is so poor now, it is impossible to get all the vitamins and minerals that you need to keep your body strong. Oh and don't jog next to the freeway, seriously, why would you do that to your lungs :tdown:

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Personally I care more about being warm during the day

 

Keep moving and you'll stay warm during the day wearing light clothing.

 

I went on a six day trip like this and only had one night of no sleep (sleeping on a cold slab on a windy night), one night of little sleep

 

Fawk that shite!

 

There's just no reason not to bring a 1 lb down bag and avoid such discomfort (and the toll it takes the next day). If you're worried about weight, leave your bivvy sack (which weighs a lb or more) at home, and take a 3 oz emergency bivvy sack (EMS brand or other) in case the weather goes south, and just sleep under the stars in your 1 lb down bag.

 

Think outside the (bivvy) bag.

Edited by tvashtarkatena

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Personally I care more about being warm during the day

 

Keep moving and you'll stay warm during the day wearing light clothing.

 

 

 

Maybe you do. I am perfectly capable of moving and freezing my ass off at the same time.

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you could stick one of those shake and warm things up yo a..

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Personally I care more about being warm during the day

 

Keep moving and you'll stay warm during the day wearing light clothing.

 

 

 

Maybe you do. I am perfectly capable of moving and freezing my ass off at the same time.

 

Maybe I should duct tape you to me as a way to cool off.

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Personally I care more about being warm during the day

 

Keep moving and you'll stay warm during the day wearing light clothing.

 

I went on a six day trip like this and only had one night of no sleep (sleeping on a cold slab on a windy night), one night of little sleep

 

Fawk that shite!

 

There's just no reason not to bring a 1 lb down bag and avoid such discomfort (and the toll it takes the next day). If you're worried about weight, leave your bivvy sack (which weighs a lb or more) at home, and take a 3 oz emergency bivvy sack (EMS brand or other) in case the weather goes south, and just sleep under the stars in your 1 lb down bag.

 

Think outside the (bivvy) bag.

 

I think part of the thing that I said about how I like to keep warm during the day had to do with the fact that it was a pretty wet and cloudy summer, and one can get pretty uncomfortable in those situations if they don't have some warm stuff to put on. Example: on that long trip we ended up getting rained out and had to walk out in the rain and had to hitchhike home (we were starting and ending at different places) Blake seemed pretty cold and wet and since I had more clothes I was really pretty comfortable even though I was soaked (I have yet to see a waterproof jacket that really keeps you dry in the Cascades). On shorter trips I often find myself climbing through the rain too.

 

As for the bivy sack vs. 1 lb down bag, you are 100% correct. Bivy sacks (that I can afford) are no good for real rain anyway, so there is no reason to not just have a sleeping bag instead. Problem is, I already have a bivy sack and have too many other things to spend my money on before I get a lighter bag. And like I said, the light emergency bivys suck. I actually had one on that trip but by the end I just slept on top of it because since it doesnt breath I would just get soaked, which took away from the warmth my clothes could give me. They are better than nothing, but as far as I'm concerned they are emergency use only, and really a plain space blanket is a lighter and better option for that.

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Just to add to the big wall poop bag.

 

As stated, start with a shopping bag. Pre-inspect these when packing to make sure there are ZERO holes, many do.

 

Bring a small bungy cord. Making one out of ligher bungy from REI or where ever is preferred. You can bungy it in place and go hands free!

 

Wet wipes rule from there!

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Not sure if this has been mentioned or not...

 

If you are in a situation where you need to blue bag it:

Take a plastic grocery bag with handles

You can hold the handles to your hips while you do your thing

When finished, tie the ends in a knot, and bag it again

Dispose as usual

 

It definitely beat having to target a bag and pick it up!

 

WTF?? Just shit on the ground, put your hand in the blue bag like a shitmitt, pick the steaming article up, turn the bag inside-out whilst holding the offending article, and wrap and twist-tie it off. Continue as per usual with secondary bag.

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A pretty good rule of thumb to remember for Prussik cords:

Prussik cord diameter should be between 2/3 and 3/4 of rope diameter.

 

8mm rope => 5-6mm prussik cord

9mm rope => 6-7mm prussik cord

10mm rope => 7mm prussik cord

11mm rope => 8mm prussik cord

 

The equation:

 

0.67*rope diam. < Prussik cord diam. < 0.75*rope diam.

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When you fly, carry on as much of your heavy stuff as you can. I've carried an 80 pound pack on that still fit in the overhead bin, along with two 50 pound checked bags, and I didn't pay any overage fees.

 

I appreciate this advise from a climbing Random Tip and Trick point of view. :tup:

 

But traveling with people that think EVERYTHING they have is a fucking "carry-on," this inconveniences and endangers everyone else on the plane. :fahq:

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But traveling with people that think EVERYTHING they have is a fucking "carry-on," this inconveniences and endangers everyone else on the plane. :fahq:

 

If you are flying overseas (esp. to/from Australasia & Europe) don't fucking try the dumbass american massive carryon. They'll inspect it and make you check it one way or another and then you are fucked.

 

Learn to travel light. It doesn't take many $25-$100 overweight bag fees for things to add up.

 

Learn to budget for the total trip. How much will the flight cost? Your luggage? Transport?

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