The $8000 Squamish Route

[cheamclimber]

it seems like squamish ratings are rather soft.. I grade a climb at harrison 5.10c and some squamish 5.12 climbers can't work it out... and some squamish climbers think that the 5.9 Great expectations is a 5.10 but its very easy.. its a bit weird!

 

I know, but ya got to love that. My very first time at Squamish, about 1 mo before the trip, I'd ripped every finger tendon in my left hand. I'd tried to get on stuff in the gym right before the trip so as to stretch out my muscles and try to get a feel for the rock before the trip, but it was excruciating, so I was just going to go because I'd earlier told my buddies I would.

 

First route - I just eyeball a line from the ground, jump on it. Fingers weren't stressed at all. After I get down my buddy Bill looks it up in the guide and it says 10d.

 

That was back when 10d meant something....well, in Yosemite it meant something anyway:-) Sure made me feel good though.

 

Ya I love that, you go to check and on-sight a 12a sport climb and all the 5.10 climbers are like 'wow are you sponsored' and your like 'that was boring I wonder if I can climb it on clean pro'

[bstach]

it seems like squamish ratings are rather soft.. I grade a climb at harrison 5.10c and some squamish 5.12 climbers can't work it out... and some squamish climbers think that the 5.9 Great expectations is a 5.10 but its very easy.. its a bit weird!

 

I know, but ya got to love that. My very first time at Squamish, about 1 mo before the trip, I'd ripped every finger tendon in my left hand. I'd tried to get on stuff in the gym right before the trip so as to stretch out my muscles and try to get a feel for the rock before the trip, but it was excruciating, so I was just going to go because I'd earlier told my buddies I would.

 

First route - I just eyeball a line from the ground, jump on it. Fingers weren't stressed at all. After I get down my buddy Bill looks it up in the guide and it says 10d.

 

That was back when 10d meant something....well, in Yosemite it meant something anyway:-) Sure made me feel good though.

 

Ya I love that, you go to check and on-sight a 12a sport climb and all the 5.10 climbers are like 'wow are you sponsored' and your like 'that was boring I wonder if I can climb it on clean pro'

 

thump, thump

[billcoe]

thump, thump

 

Yeah, it excites me too:-)

[Blake]

This route is now completed with the fixed lines, pitons, air compressor, etc all gone. The architects/first ascentionists tried to climb after removing equipment, but fell, hit a ledge, and caused a bit of (edited to add - their phrase)-> a "rescue operation" lowering off.

 

Sounds like all the mass-cleaning is done, I hope they scrubbed Arrowroot et al...

Edited April 24, 2008 by Blake

[jmace]

Hey Blake

 

seems like your more worried about some shitty one move wonder 10a than a fellow climber who may have hurt himself. Why dont you keep that attitude and your bullshit name calling in washington.

 

Heres to hoping whoever hurt themselves recovers for the season and the send of their new route

[David Trippett]

Jesse,

 

I don't think Blake meant anything, although his post possibly could be interpreted as insensitive. I did not pick up on that at all when I read it. Blake is a great guy and would not say or do anything to dishonor a fellow climber.

 

Blake,

 

(correct me if I'm wrong here Jesse) I believe Jesse knows people involved with that route and probably responded to you out of loyalty and concern for an injured friend.

 

 

 

 

At any rate and whatever the case is here.....I don't presume to speak for either of you....but I know that you are both great guys, both by reputation and first-hand knowledge.

 

People have strong opinions about Europa/Crap Crags for whatever reason....but it's done and now we have a new route to play on. Best part is I didn't lift a finger

 

Let's hope that the injured climber has a speedy recovery!

 

Group hug?

[jmace]

ha fair enough, I dont know one person involved with this epic route nor do I really have any desire to climb it.

 

I was just unimpressed with the title of the thread and what I perceived as jabs at the FA who by Blakes account had ledge fall and is now injured, just thought it was poor form.

 

All is well and Im sure Blake is a fine guy.

[Bug]

We all suck.

Why else would we be posting here instead of climbing?

[Matthew Carroll]

Nobody was paid to go cleaning, nor was gas, the van Jeff bought to work on the project, or anybody's personal gear (or snacks) covered. The air compressor was $400 second hand, used to blow dirt out of cracks and off the climb in huge quantities (saving hundreds of hours of scrubbing), and is being donated to the access society.

 

What cost lots of money was the heavy lifting hardware, four rap racks which all had the sets of bars replaced numerous times due to abrasion wear, and rope, of which the project went through far more than was expected due to damage in the process of cleaning. There is also a series of 7 rap stations from the top of pitch 4 to the ground (away from the route), so that the first 4 pitches can still be climbed all season, during the falcon closures.

 

As for the funding, it's worth noting first that Jeff is entitled to spend his own money as he sees fit - which is what he did, and where the vast majority of the money came from. Some people spend $100,000 on a car, which is of no benefit to anybody. Others, for whatever reason, spend money on something which will be of a lot of benefit to beginner climbers. The rest of the donations were given by people or organisations specifically to the Europa project, because they supported the idea.

 

Hamish Mutch, one of the first ascensionists, who was a VOC member in the '60s, has now given his blessing to the renaming of the modern line. My understanding is that the new Climbers Guide to Squamish will still credit the first ascent to Hamish and Dick Culbert for the original "Crap crags" line, but also include a mention of how the modern line came to be developed. Personally, I think that's exactly how it should be.

 

As for the injured climber, that was me. I put in a significant number of cleaning trips over the last year. Probably 200+ hours work, although still far, far less than Jeff. We finished removing the last of the hardware, fixed lines, and the compressor from the lower pitches last Sunday night, and were rather too keen to climb it in its finished state on Monday. We were both tired from the heavy work the night before, and I slipped on an easy move on pitch 2, after already having lead the crux, and fell onto a ramping ledge system. I was beat up, but otherwise fairly lucky, with just a badly sprained wrist, sore ass, and cuts and bruises. We self-rescued by escaping off climber's right to the rap station at the top of Rutabaga and down from there.

 

Personally I think Europa is a fantastic project. I have yet to climb it bottom-to-top but I've been on the route dozens of times, and climbed parts of it. Some of the climbing that was hiding beneath the vegetation and debris is great for the grade, in a wonderful location. Don't take my word for it though, please, climb it and decide for yourselves. A topo and full route description are now available on the updated page on the VOC wiki:

 

http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Europa

 

Matthew

[billcoe]

Nobody was paid to go cleaning, nor was gas, the van Jeff bought to work on the project, or anybody's personal gear (or snacks) covered. The air compressor was $400 second hand, used to blow dirt out of cracks and off the climb in huge quantities (saving hundreds of hours of scrubbing), and is being donated to the access society.

 

What cost lots of money was the heavy lifting hardware, four rap racks which all had the sets of bars replaced numerous times due to abrasion wear, and rope, of which the project went through far more than was expected due to damage in the process of cleaning. There is also a series of 7 rap stations from the top of pitch 4 to the ground (away from the route), so that the first 4 pitches can still be climbed all season, during the falcon closures.

 

As for the funding, it's worth noting first that Jeff is entitled to spend his own money as he sees fit - which is what he did, and where the vast majority of the money came from. Some people spend $100,000 on a car, which is of no benefit to anybody. Others, for whatever reason, spend money on something which will be of a lot of benefit to beginner climbers. The rest of the donations were given by people or organisations specifically to the Europa project, because they supported the idea.

 

Hamish Mutch, one of the first ascensionists, who was a VOC member in the '60s, has now given his blessing to the renaming of the modern line. My understanding is that the new Climbers Guide to Squamish will still credit the first ascent to Hamish and Dick Culbert for the original "Crap crags" line, but also include a mention of how the modern line came to be developed. Personally, I think that's exactly how it should be.

 

As for the injured climber, that was me. I put in a significant number of cleaning trips over the last year. Probably 200+ hours work, although still far, far less than Jeff. We finished removing the last of the hardware, fixed lines, and the compressor from the lower pitches last Sunday night, and were rather too keen to climb it in its finished state on Monday. We were both tired from the heavy work the night before, and I slipped on an easy move on pitch 2, after already having lead the crux, and fell onto a ramping ledge system. I was beat up, but otherwise fairly lucky, with just a badly sprained wrist, sore ass, and cuts and bruises. We self-rescued by escaping off climber's right to the rap station at the top of Rutabaga and down from there.

 

Personally I think Europa is a fantastic project. I have yet to climb it bottom-to-top but I've been on the route dozens of times, and climbed parts of it. Some of the climbing that was hiding beneath the vegetation and debris is great for the grade, in a wonderful location. Don't take my word for it though, please, climb it and decide for yourselves. A topo and full route description are now available on the updated page on the VOC wiki:

 

http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Europa

 

Matthew

 

You frikkan Canadians are amazing, God bless you all. Small note - abiet too late to save your rope. Put it in a Black Diamond Speed bag or the awesome new Metolius Port-a-cord rope bag stacked to feed, and clip it to your harness (or back).

 

I've been using a Edelrid Eddy, a Petzl Shunt backup or a Russian Square figure 8 to rap, and I tie a few backup knots too. Don't know for rap device you have. Anyhow, feed it as you go, when you leave just leave it in the bag which you can tie it off and still protected inside the bag. I stopped wacking my ropes when I did this.

 

Glad you're OK, been there done that:-) I don't think anyone who hasn't spent a day cleaning can realize how totally pwn'ed you can get at the end of the day. Nice public service project you folks did.

 

 

I will leave you all with this Teddy Roosevelt quote which above all sums up your endeavor for me, despite what others may or may not think:

 

 

"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."

[robotsweat]

I'd hit it.

[marc_leclerc]

looks like fun... maybe a good solo jaunt in the sun

[hafilax]

I climbed Europa yesterday and it's a fun outing. It's a lot of pulling over blocks and wedged flakes. You have to be very mindful of pulling stuff off and placing gear since things do move. Otherwise the pitches are long and there are a bunch of gear anchors so gear management was the game of the day. The 3 consecutive chimneys at the top are a blast.

 

Overall it was lots of fun and I'm glad I got on it before the falcon closures.