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David Trippett

[TR] Brasil- Rio de Janeiro - Various 2/1/2008

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Trip: Brasil- Rio de Janeiro - Various

 

Date: 2/1/2008

 

Trip Report:

Since getting back from from Chile, I've been hanging out here in Rio to pass Carnaval with my wife's family and to do some climbing....as usual for this time of year, the weather in Rio is way too humid and wet to do much other than easy routes or aid...but there's plenty of other things to do in Rio besides climb :brew::rocken:

 

Rio, for those who aren't familiar, is a city full of walls. The Sugar Loaf, right in the center of the city has many routes of about 300m+ in length. Most of the routes are on a type of gneiss or granite pegmatite.

 

The majority of the climbing is face climbing (there are also some nice cracks around) and is protected by "grampos"

 

grampo_p.jpg

 

the Brasilian version of a drilled angle....they take a bit of straight 12mm rod stock, weld on an eye and then bash it into a drilled hole as protection with some bits of old aluminum soda can as spacer to hold it in. Sounds scary, until you realize that in a marine environment like Rio, being able to visually assess the quality of the fixed gear is a must. Many routes only require draws, but are known locally as "Traditional" ...I guess since they were led ground up and can be run-out.

 

As for Brasilian grades....if you think the British System is cumbersome and esoteric....

 

Here is a typical Brasilian grade for a traditional route: 6° VII (A1/VIIc) E2 D3 300m:noway:

 

Anyway...To get to the point, there is a heap of climbing in Rio, and yes it also can be very dangerous here in general....but the primary climbing areas, such as the Sugar Loaf are 100% safe and climbers even get to ride for free back down on the Teleferico (the cable car as seen in that James Bond film)

 

Here's a few photos from the climbing, the city and Carnaval....it's been a fun trip....but I'm looking forward to getting back to BC soon.

 

 

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Corcovado, the location of the Cristo Redentor statue...and some of the biggest routes in Rio. We did a moderate route here to the summit

 

 

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The view south from Ipanema beach

 

 

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The Sugar Loaf from the summit of Corcovado

 

 

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The west face of the Sugar Loaf and the famous Teleferico, which is free for climbers to ride down on!

 

 

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Wagner and another Jungle Approach

 

 

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Wagner at the base of a route on the Sugar Loaf

 

 

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A view out to the Sugar Loaf from the base of the route we did on Corcovado

 

 

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Me on the first pitch of the route "K2" on Corcovado. Yes, It's bolted...but most Brasilians can't afford racks.

 

 

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Me on route on "K2"

 

 

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The summit of Corcovado

 

 

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A route called "Os Italianos" on the Sugar Loaf I did with a friend from Ireland. Summiting here is great, as the final pitch finishes with the climb out onto the viewing deck in full tourist awe and finishes at the bar.

 

 

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The view from the "Os Italianos"

 

 

 

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Our trolley ride down through the old neighbourhood of Santa Teresa after climbing Corcovado

 

 

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Carnaval Madness....check out the guy on a snowboard....on real snow! Everyone should experience a Carnaval in Rio at least once in their life.

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

rack, draws, rope

 

Approach Notes:

Bus

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