Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Clarence

Beginner Trad Rack

Recommended Posts

5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

 

I am having a hard time deciding if your words are from personal experience. If you are just cocky by nature or do you back up your words with “hard trad” sends?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

hardly bad pro on that rig...

 

My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

hardly bad pro on that rig...

 

My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me...

 

The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11.

 

You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad.

Edited by G-spotter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

hardly bad pro on that rig...

 

My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me...

 

The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11.

 

You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad.

i understand the concept...but they never tell you whether the route is hard but protected or ez but scary with that E rating...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can infer it from the tech. grade. Like E4 5b will be loose, scary and poor pro but E4 6b will be one hard move with bomber gear at your waist.

 

For instance I've apparently climbed E3 5b (according to the 3rd ascentionist) but failed on E2 5c which suggests I am OK with scary runouts but weak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone remember the old "S" grade that McKlane set up. I think the northwest should bring that back only change it to an "I" because I is the first letter of Intensity and our favorite place to climb.

Edited by DCramer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd think E4 6b would be more appropriate for Jap Gardens...but I haven't done that much bold trad.

 

If you haven't already...and you have questions about the Brit grades...

 

give this a read...

 

http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html

 

and then watch this vid...

 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/sol/newsid_7080000/newsid_7082100/7082148.stm?bw=bb&mp=rm&news=1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone remember the old "S" grade that McKlane set up. I think the northwest should bring that back only change it to an "I" because I is the first letter of Intensity and our favorite place to climb.

 

The S was for Sandbag.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Besides the rack I would suggest studying John Long's books on climbing anchors. Learn how to use your gear properly and efficiently as well as starting out on climbs that are within your limits. Maybe do them as topropes first. However, onsight climbing is the most rewarding and unpredictable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×