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Beginner Trad Rack


Clarence

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5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

hardly bad pro on that rig...

 

My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me...

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5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

hardly bad pro on that rig...

 

My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me...

 

The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11.

 

You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad.

Edited by G-spotter
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5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4.

 

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

hardly bad pro on that rig...

 

My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me...

 

The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11.

 

You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad.

i understand the concept...but they never tell you whether the route is hard but protected or ez but scary with that E rating...

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You can infer it from the tech. grade. Like E4 5b will be loose, scary and poor pro but E4 6b will be one hard move with bomber gear at your waist.

 

For instance I've apparently climbed E3 5b (according to the 3rd ascentionist) but failed on E2 5c which suggests I am OK with scary runouts but weak.

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I'd think E4 6b would be more appropriate for Jap Gardens...but I haven't done that much bold trad.

 

If you haven't already...and you have questions about the Brit grades...

 

give this a read...

 

http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html

 

and then watch this vid...

 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/sol/newsid_7080000/newsid_7082100/7082148.stm?bw=bb&mp=rm&news=1

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