Dan_Larson Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 I have a 10.5 60 meter climbing rope . It has only been used once and that was as a second rope for rappelling on the tooth.What I really need is a glacier rope . I am getting tired of asking friend to borrow his. Anyone wanna trade a excellent condition galcier rope for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 i got for ya dano. i took a whipper on it, but it is a 37m 7mm blue water ice floss. still good stuff though. i dont like glacier routes so unless there is rock and i probably dont want to fall on it again, so dare ya go. is yours a dry rope??? and what is the manufactor??? none of that millet crap. [ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 I have a 9.4 mm, 60 meter dry rope that, once the spot that the rock hit is cut out, will make an excellent glacier rope. And hey, this rope has what you lack and need..experience. Its been on first ascents of waterfalls, on long alpine rock routes and up mixed routes in Alaska. Sure your partners will look at it and ask how old it is but you will be able to truthfully answer that you just got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 With my limited experience all I can tell you is it is made by LANEX. I need something a little longer Eric But thanks. DPS.... thanks anyways but I would like it to be in a little better shape than you described. I would like to get 3 people on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 [ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: Dan Larson ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 Dan - take foot out of mouth. Please. A sixty meter rope is considered long on glaicers. Sounds like Erik's is the best rope, go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 Who said any thing about wanting a sixty meter rope .I would expect more out of you Robert.Take my name off that Hood deal will ya . Insults I get enough of from the others on this site. [ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: Dan Larson ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 ill even throw in a muir commemrative plastic baggy with some oregano in it....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregm Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 with a 37 m rope 3 people can be 40 feet apart. isn't that plenty dan? or do your climbing partners request that you stay even further away from them than normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 Yeah suppose you are right Greg, Now I am not gonna tell you again , Get over here and sno seal my boots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 well greg even though dan larson sux, atleast he has a good attitude for it.....and when you are done sno sealing his boots you and gi joe can come over and mow my yard and vaccum my truck out before i go to canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregm Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dan "Vacuum Lips" Larson: Get over here and sno seal my boots [ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: gregm ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 my $0.02 no dis to erik, but 7mm IMO suck for glaciers unless you really like using prusiks for "extraction action". Most ascenders won't grab them. Tiblocs are rated from 10mm to 12mm and Ropeman's are rated from 9 to 11mm. The Petzl ascenders are good from 8mm to 13mm, these are the only ones I personally have used. my advice Dan.... get an 8.5 x 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Does anyone take ascenders/ropeman on glaciated climbs? Seems like a lot of weight to be hauling when prussiks work just fine. I wouldn't use a tibloc unless I was desperate. I'll stick with prusskis thank you very much. I don't even wanna know what you use for "snow seal" Larson. I've used 7mm-11mm for glacier travel. The smaller the diameter the better in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 I use a 9.8 on glaciers which allow me to bring tiblocs and a ropeman for prusiking. If I had to extract somoene, it would definitely be with prusiks though. I don't know too many people who carry big ascenders up with them anywhere in Washington - except for those wild and crazy RMI Guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 I agree with rbw1966. I almost never carry any ascenders, except prusik line. They work just fine are light weight and simple. I also just carry a petzl pulley wheel on an oval biner. They rock and weigh nothing...cheap too. tiblocs have some applications, but again you just don't need it on a glacier. Why carry it if you don't need it? Especially true when you have two rope teams. Just power them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 rbw1966, Carrying ascenders - One part of my answer would depend on which route you are taking. If you are going up the Hogsback's or the Leuthold on Hood, for me at least I see no real need. If I am crossing the upper Nisqually or the Carbon, yes.Have you ever pulled 200+ pounds of climber out of a crevasse with prusiks? Have you every tried to work prusiks in the dead of winter with gloves or mittens on? I have more than once and personnaly choose to never do it again, that is do the job with prusiks.To me it is part of the speed/safety issue. The last time I was involved in such an "extraction" my buddy, dangling on the other end was useless due to a nice gash in his forearm recieved from the pick of his axe as he fell. He ended up loosing a fair amount of blood. The weather sucked and freezing prusik knots would definatly taken us much longer to pull his sorry ass out.No doubt they (ascenders) are heavy, the set of Petzl's I have with 6mm stirrups weight .4 lbs, a heefty sum. Not to promote Petzl but the Tibloc weight 39 grams, less than most caribiners. Have you ever carried more carabiners on a climb than you really needed?Even with the heavier ascenders I can still keep my total pack weight under 40 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 wdietsch--I agree with you. I carried ascenders on Denali, but as you pointed out, for most applications in the Cascades the ascenders are a bit more than needed. You can tout the weight advatages of tiblocs all you want--they've been shown to be pretty damaging to the sheath of a rope if you are not extremely careful. And yeah, I have tried working prussiks with gloves on in the dead of winter. So far I've never had to pull a partner out of a crevasse except in practice conditions. I'm hoping I never have to. You (in the general sense, not you specifically) weigh your decisions and make the choices that work best for you. I try to carry stuff that has more than one application. Good points to consider for sure! Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Has anyone tried one of the new petzl reverso's for acending a rope? It says it can be used that way too. Anyone tried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Are you sure you mean the Reverso? I am about 99.9 % positive that they do not include any mention of ascending a rope with a Reverso in the instruction manual that it comes with, or in the catolog, or on their web site. In theory it woulsd hold your weight if you had it rigged to your harness like you would rig it to a fixed belay station....same as a gri-gri would. But this sounds awkward and sketchy at best, plus it would not promote any upward movement without the use of a second ascending device. On the other hand, the manual for the new Pro-traction device made by petzl states that it can be used for ascending a fixed rope. But you'd never carry one on a glaicer. Hope that helps. BTW- Wdeitch, look at this web page: http://petzl.devcross.com/petzl/publicFamille?id=BLOQ#TIBLOCTiblocks are recomended for use from 8mm-11mm not 10mm-12mm. Don't bullshit if you don't know what you are talking about... Tiblocks kick ass, and work fine on an BW Ice Floss rope if you use a FAT locking biner. The 7.8 37m is the way to go. Tiblocks are twice as fast as screwing around with prusiks, and don't require that you tend to them with every hoist. Light, small, easy to use...what else do you want? Stick to your old prusik if you wish, but don't dis the Tiblock. [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 I am pretty sure that Petzel advertised the Reverso as an emergency ascender in a print add. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregm Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 i played around with my new reverso last night. i think i figured out the "emergency ascender" function. it is basically the same as the auto-lock configuration, with the biner through the smaller loop clipped to the load. it will not work well if the down end of the rope is under a lot of tension, because there is too much friction to pull it up. it might work for prussiking out of a crevasse if you use it for the leg loop, although if you take your pack off and clip it to the rope loop below you it might be too much tension. needs further experimentation. the reverso-as-ascender would seem to work very nicely for belaying yourself up u fixed line, such as when retrieving a snagged rappel line. it might even have some utility in a z-pully system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 If you clip an 8mm diameter biner to the small hole, and have one rope coming out at a 50 degree angle, and the other at a 40 degree angle, and then squeeze the metal pin, the reverso will play "Ode To Joy". Try it, it's cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 19, 2002 Share Posted January 19, 2002 Cool, I stand corrected. Still, I have never seen Petzl recomend this, and the rep. didn't mention it at the last Petzl clinic. Oh well, whatever works right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 19, 2002 Share Posted January 19, 2002 Bone its an "Easter egg" not some trick they tell just any gaper. thats why the rep didnt mention it to ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.