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[TR] huaraz/peru part 7 - huapi/quinarumi 2/12/2008

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Trip: huaraz/peru part 7 - huapi/quinarumi


Date: 2/12/2008


Trip Report:

wow! met some guys in huaraz who were going trekking which is my queue to get out of town.!i told them i'd go if i could climb a couple peaks. they did the quilcahuanca valley with the high pass (5000m) to cojup valley to return.we got to the end of the valley in about 6hrs.from there i saw a rock peak that looked over 5200m.next day i told my pals to go ahead and i would climb this and join them later. they had to cross over the pass that day. i hid my pack close by and took nothing!well.. my camera, and gloves.i was doing a rock scramble peak. 3-5 hrs roundtrip. proverbial yaaaaaH!

i left at 8am on a nice clear day. i had scoped a route up the grass slopes to the rock cone.sort of worked. i had to improvise.got to the rock in about 2hrs of 40% grass/moraine slopes.the rock was pretty bad. would'nt want to have to protect that stuff!! .i moved up following obvious lines.got stuck a couple times on vertical sections that thinned out or crapped out but traversed to better options.really had to pay attention to loose holds.i got to my first summit (5200m)after 4hrs.fine . only thing is, there is no way i'm downclimbing that!! fortunately i'm on a ridge and there is another peak about 1hr up.bag it in the name of love.(5275M).no real descent route in view.but , there, in plain view ,up the ridge about 2hrs, is a real sweetie...! looks like it goes . i am starting to hit snow but its just below feezing and i'm confortable. a series of vertical steps/blocks and i'm getting close. the final hour i have to alternate to the snow fields (50/70%) for short stints .the snow is perfect . punch some deep steps and go...as i punch hand holds with my fingers i remember the scene from kill bill...in the coffin..

i am so happy to be given this....i summit after 7 hrs..what a treat..(Quinarumi 5455m). throughout i scoped a descent route to the left on the snow slopes.....i worked out a series of 'tongues to rock step' etc...from the summit i downclimb a short vertical rock step to the snows. i glissade most of the way.i am soaked in minutes as it is 3pm and sunny. no harm cause its 3pm and sunny.the previous climbs here have thought me to take great care descending to the valleys. you dont want to add 3-4 hours on a slope that ends in a cliff..now.... 3hrs later i find my pack.its 4pm and no way i'm goona catch my pals at the next camp.i realise that they got all the food minus a bag of oatmeal...rich...i eat some.i got 100g of raisins and some cytomax..i start to climb up to the pass.i take a different route up cause it will take me closer to HUAPI, my next goal. i get up 2/3 way by night fall. i pitch in the trail.the night is clear.alpenglow.next day i leave by 6 to get a shot at my pals if they camped at the col.they are down the other side.i climb up to a platform of moss by a small pond (5100m)i eat some more oatmeal and rest.by 9am i leave for the summit. this time i bring one tech axe but no crampons.i want to got up the rock buttress and descend by the glacier.pretty straight forward until the final cone, where the rock is visibly broken up.sure enough i get in a nearly vertical line that's all crushed. i have my cam in a belt pouch with a nalgene on the right and my axe on the left. i pull the axe and start swinging. works. i cam it in.i use the hammer. i get up.one move i am all on it and i remember my coach telling me to test my placements and then TRUST them!! ya baby!! i zigzag my way up and finally get to the summit snows. beautiful day! i take pics galore.. all the giants are here...chinchey,ranrapalca,sanjuan,and the "k2 of peru", senor' HUANTSAN...i start down the summit snow slopes..after a while i jump down onto a lower snow slopes, traverse under the iced corniche for 100m to get to a glissadable slope.its all wet and mushy.soaked in minutes but it's controllable stuff. after a series of glissades/rock steps, i am back on the morraine slopes and at my tent in an hr. i look back and smile in gratitude......


PS. these peaks (all 5000m +) are part of a memorial i am doing here in peru to honour the memory of my great friend and mentor,who passed in oct.76peaks for 76 years of service to humanity.


i does?


does i muster the will?

does he line up the stars?

does i choose the god-hour?

does he stirs in me the call?

not sure yet i love it all........




quinarumi ridge


next day after a snow fall


the final ridge to summit






THE rock finish..



Gear Notes:

boots,paclite pants and jacket,gloves,cap and tuque, one quark,high def camera.avatar picture.


Approach Notes:

at the end of quilcahuanca valley, 8 hrs from huaraz.

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