Gibralter ledges route in June

[Dave C]

I am looking at doing Gib ledges in June and wanted to see if anyone had done the route that time of year? I know that it needs to be pretty cold as to minimize the rock/ice fall danger. I wanted to do this route in the summer so that I can come back and take it on during the winter. I also understand that it is the "standard" route for a winter ascent. Can anyone comment on that?

[Tom_Sjolseth]

I have not done the route in June, but have climbed it in February. True, the ledges are the standard route for a Winter ascent. In average snow years, the ledges are usually out of shape by mid-June. Who knows if that'll be the case this season. Obviously (or not) that's all going to depend on what happens between now and June.

 

I don't know your background, but I feel obligated to offer this advice: There's been an extraordinary amount of snowfall this Winter, with not much consolidation. Consider that when you're gauging conditions for a trip to the ledges this year, even in June.

 

Check out Gauthier's blog, the avy forecast, and this forum for recent conditions before you head out.

 

 

[DPS]

I wanted to do this route in the summer so that I can come back and take it on during the winter.

 

I don't think that is necessary. The route finding is dead easy, there is really no way to get lost. I think rock fall would make the ledges a nightmare in June.

[Dave C]

Thanks for the heads up. I have done the DC and Kautz routes in summer, just wanting to get as much experience before I head up a winter attempt. I sure does sound like there is a lot of snow this winter.

[K^2]

Thanks for the heads up. I have done the DC and Kautz routes in summer, just wanting to get as much experience before I head up a winter attempt. I sure does sound like there is a lot of snow this winter.

 

The first ascent of the year appears to have been gib ledges: linky

 

Conditions on the Muir Snowfield look awful... for a skier.

[Mike_Gauthier]

I've climbed Gib Ledges in June a few times. Normally, after one of those "June storms" where the route gets re-coated w/ snow/ice. Each time, it was totally great, and a nice variation on the main Muir routes. In fact, it was easier and faster than it normally is in the winter...

 

All that said, it was quite warm on the way down, so I suggest descending the ID or DC. You should DEFINITELY leave early too, and ABSOLUTELY wear a helmet... Also, if there hasn't been a recent storm, and significant storm at that, don't do it. Because under all that beautiful glacial ice, Rainier is really just a choss pile waiting to pummel you with rocks. And without all the snow/ice, Gib Ledges is, well, not very fun.

[Raindawg]

I did it on July 4th once. We reached the ledges just as there was enough light to see our way across. The only thing that was tricky was a bit of a downclimb below a rusted-out rappel anchor which we didn't use. After that, it was a pleasant, but quick, walk to the chute. We were the only party on that route and when we topped out of the chute near the top of Gibralter Rock, we could see what looked like hundreds of people slogging up the D.C. route which is the way we came down. I wouldn't even think of returning down the ledges during the summer as it will rain rocks when the sun hits it. It was once the old guide route in the early days and I'm surprised that there were apparently few accidents.

I also did it in winter once....we wore crampons from the Paradise parking lot all the way to the top and the ledges were easy. The scary part was on the descent when one of my buddies slipped on the slope just above the chute and I had to perform a "do or die" self-arrest as he came ripping by. Ouch! Otherwise, a fun but cold adventure.

[catbirdseat]

Ask Marek about his first trip on the ledges. His partner fell off and tumbled a long way down. The guy survived, but there was a helicopter rescue.

[Dave C]

I guess weather will dictate if I go this route or not. I would never think of descending down it in summer. Plus, those stories don't sound reassuring.

[ericb]

June's a great time to do the Kautz route, before the glacial ice gets very exposed. We did it June 2006 and didn't need screws or a second tool.

[Dave C]

I did the Kautz route in July of 07 and the ice was sure exposed! I am looking at doing a different route and don't really want to do the "typical" DC, ingraham route.

[catbirdseat]

Try the Winthrop. I've heard it can be a cool experience. It goes out earlier than the Emmons or so they say.

 

It's supposed to be kind of like the Emmons only you get to do your own route finding.

[rbw1966]

We did the ledges in the summer one year. As others have noted, there was tons of crap raining down on the descent. It definitely motivated us to move fast.

[Fairweather]

I Climbed Gibraltar Ledges in May of 1987. Just remember that when you get to the "eye bolt" (may be gone now) there is no rappel as some believe--just some easy down stepping. From here, stay up on the higher ledge - even though it looks like it dead ends at a corner up above. This corner is where the route angles into the upper chute - right where you want to be.

[tvashtarkatena]

Gib can be a great way to cut off summiting time and waiting-in-line hassles in June. Some years there's a water ice flow you need to cross just before leaving the ledges. Nothing too technical. but a screw might come in handy if you've got party members that need some extra confidence. Only a fool would try to descend it that time of year, tho. Join the conga line on the DC or other route or break out your squirrel suit.