FBCC Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Trip: Utah, Provo Canyon - Stairway to Heaven - Provo Canyon Date: 1/22/2008 Trip Report: Just Got back from Salt Lake City thought I would share two great climbs we were lucky enough to get on. if you get the chance 'Stairway to Heaven' is a must and the 'Great White Icicle' was classic as well. Stairway to Heaven Approach: Continue into the canyon on Hwy 189 park at Nunn’s Park / Bridal Veil Falls Parking Area - About 4.5 miles up Provo Canyon. Park on the south side to approach the climbs. 20 minute hike from parking lot Guide book Stats: 900' WI5 5 standard pitches all full 60m rope lengths except P4 and I think P5 on the lower Pitches the lower apron/curtains are wide so various lines possible Conditions on the day climbed: Ice was Brittle temps in the single digits. Took long Screws fine. P1 was WI3+-4 P2 was WI4 P3 was WI5 P4 Start WI4 then WI3 P5 never saw it as a slow party was ahead of us choking the only touched down column so we bailed Belay and wrap station are bolted, bottom of 4th P has a solid tree Need double 60m ropes for the wraps hooked up with a great local climber Thanks Dallen! Classic Climb great views Below are a few pics over view of climb: First pitch: 3rd pitch: Looking down from top of 3rd: Warpping off second: If interested other pics of the climb can be found here http://picasaweb.google.com/Iceclimber39/StairwayToHeavenProvoCanyonUtah climb safe Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Thanks for the pics of both climbs--looks like a rad trip. Do you have any idea how long the season lasts there? The cottonwoods run mostly E-W, right? So, are these climbs north facing or south? Any recommended guide books for the area? I'll be heading there in early March though I suspect that's much too late. Probably desert climbing weather... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I actually just got on this one two days ago. Great climb, but make sure you're there before the junk show arrives. The Utah ice climbing (Falcon press?) and the mixed guide for Provo and Santaquin Canyons will get you headed to the right spots. I would venture a guess that early March will still be ice climbing time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FBCC Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Hey Farrgo So you did head out there anyway. there were so many other climbs that I got to see, but did not have enough time to get on. I also heard that Joes Valley about 2 1/2 hours south is a great location as well. Its great that you got the chance to climb stairway what else did you get on while you were out there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 There's actually been quite a bit of snow as of late and some warm temps, so its not exactly what I've dreamed. Maple Canyon is having a very fat year, we climbed Get Whacked and Cobble Crusher and had a go (unsuccessful) on Frankenchrist. With over a foot and half of snow in the forcast for tonight its either gonna be some sheltered mixed climb or a skiing day. FYI the fifth pitch of STH was definatly worth it, solid 5. The sixth pitch is short, bolt protected, and only partly formed. Regardless it would go with just a few burly moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Quit playing in my backyard! Where did you get the Provo Santaquin Mixed guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 My buddy is a local and owns a copy, I didn't realize it was hard to get ahold of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Yeah, I haven't seen it around. Any chance you can scan it to a PDF for emailing 2 me if it's short? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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