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syklone

It had to be asked: Will the gorge be in this week

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So what do people think? It's been pretty cold for the past few nights on the west side, and all the weather people are saying that this is the coldest air mass of the season. I haven't driven out there but maybe by Thursday a few lines in the shade would come in if it stays cold? Thoughts?

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Easy there, cowboy. We can all acknowledge that the question begs speculation, but syklone is not the only one in Portland speculating. Syklone (and fifty others) will heed your neighborly advice and drive out there every day with binoculars, as long as the east wind continues to blow--and if there is even a veneer of ice to scratch up, don't fool yourself, it WILL be on the internet . . . complete with photo documentation.

 

For those of us who appreciate the gift of local ice, let's hope the winds continue.

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I wouldn't count on this board for the latest info. I know that I've driven out there many times and seen some climbable ice without any mentions here.

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Yeah, if tomorrow and Wed are really cold you might be able to scratch around and find something on Wed. Unlikely, but maybe.

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I drove through this afternoon and it looked like things were forming up well. But it was definitely a wind tunnel.

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I drove through on Wednesday. There were a few spots that would be doable. Most of the ice I saw was very thin that would be TR only. Cap horn looked to have a lot of ice on it, although it could all just be wind-blow and rime like. Drive up there and you'll find something to climb if your willing to make the effort. The frozen moss looks to be very good right now.

 

-Nate

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In:

 

Pete's Pile

Mist Falls

Tunnel Vision

Starvin Marvin

 

Basically you want stuff that is either protected from the sun (i.e. you cant see from your car) and/or stuff near where cold pockets form in the gorge (geographic features that catch the wind). Have fun and climb safe.

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Pete's pile has ice. A lot of it is thin and would require bold leading. Lots of good bordering could be had at the base of the wall as there is lots of thick ice that is out of the sun. The top of the cliffs gets full PM sun and is melted in a lot places.

 

 

In:

 

Pete's Pile

Mist Falls

Tunnel Vision

Starvin Marvin

 

Basically you want stuff that is either protected from the sun (i.e. you cant see from your car) and/or stuff near where cold pockets form in the gorge (geographic features that catch the wind). Have fun and climb safe.

Edited by eldiente

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I guess one man's "in" is anothers "out." Anyhow, Pete's Pile is not in great shape, but I climbed there yesterday and stuff will go. Anything west-facing is delamed (sp?). Make an effort and go check stuff out, you'll be suprised what you find.

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Possible new route(?) at Pumphouse area: 'Tatras' 35m WI4 M5 is located directly above parking pullout, 200ft right of Pumphouse Blues on the Terminal Dysfunction cliffband. Climb TD, pull overhang to climb 25m ice & turf(stubbies, spectre and warthog useful) and belay off screws on ice above. Move belay 50ft left below ice dagger in prominent right-facing corner. Climb dagger and mixed to more classic gorge-style turf & ice. Rappel from large tree(slings) at topout(60m) or walk left to Pumphouse Blues anchors(2x30m).

tatras2.jpgtatras_1.jpg

 

No doubt that everything's probably been climbed before(yawn) and there's no ice in the gorge(double-yawn)...

 

Also climbed PB to Gathering Storm, however significant icefall while at base of upper pitches sent us packing. Cool line though - and well worth the hike!

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