Matt Kidd Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Looking for opinions on dry half-ropes for ice/alpine. I have used Beal 8.6s and have no reason to want anything different as they have performed well. Nonetheless, before spending the $... thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Do you need 70ms? As quite few companies do not offer 70m half ropes, is weight a huge issue? I've climbed on the both the Mammut Genesis and the Mammut Phoenix and really liked them. I haven't liked anything beal has put out yet. I've heard the new half rope from Metolius is nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 I think that the Metolius 7.8mm 1/2 ropes are the lightest 1/2 rope out there. I used them rockclimbing in Red Rocks recently and the things were great. I think that the tufted rope marking system they have kicks ass too. At the end of a long route, your quads will be thanking you. Metolius 7.8mm UIAA falls: twin 16, half 6 weight: 38 g/m sheath slippage: 0 max. impact force: twin 8.5 kN, half 5.7 kN elongation: twin 7%, half 8% certification: UIAA, CE, EN 892 Beal 8.6mm * Excellent balance between weight and durability * Low impact force / high falls sustained * Weight per meter: 48 g * Impact force: 5.10 kN * Number of UIAA Falls: 16 * Sheath slippage: 0 mm * First fall elongation: 35 % * Static elongation 11.5 % Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kidd Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 (edited) How is the dry coating on the Mammut/Metolius? I had heard that he Beal has the best dry system. The feel of the Beal isn't as nice as the Mammut, but I would rather have the rope that will best resist freezing. Has this been an issue? As for the Metolius, what about the durability being a smaller diameter rope? How do you find rapping with gloves on (though in Red Rocks likely didn't have to)? The weight of the Metolius is definately attractive. thanks Edited January 20, 2008 by Matt Kidd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 My Mammut lines were didn't freeze up at all for the first season or so... now they pretty much always freeze. I'm not sure that Beal's dry treatment would last that much longer, but then again, it depends on how much you climb. For skinny lines, use a belay device with teeth like the ATC guide. Also you can add another biner while descending to increase friciton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kidd Posted January 21, 2008 Author Share Posted January 21, 2008 Good suggestions. Any others out there using the Metolius 7.8s? Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 still my fave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_p Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Used Mammut Genesis Halves for 2 years of ice in the Canadian Rockies and some big wall stuff on Yamnuska and found them to be excellent. Wear well, good dry coat and don't have that goddamn Beal supertwist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 I've been using a pair of mammut genesis halves for going on 2 years now, and have been happy so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kidd Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Ended up with the Mammut Phoenix doubles. Bought the BD ATC Guide to go along as suggested. Greatly improved the ice trip, thanks for the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I've been using a pair of mammut genesis halves for going on 2 years now, and have been happy so far. That's what I have and my only complaint is the greater weight. I've thought about getting twins for when weight is of utmost importance. Certainly, for places like Darrington, with easy approaches, the Genesis is just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I'm using 7.8mm x 60m twins and a guide ATC. Not that anyone else suggests it but I like it a lot. In the right places it is also worth thinking about using just one as a 30m twin. While the other stays in the pack for raps. Used a 70 meter single last trip which turned "everything" into a two pitch route, which i liked. But seemed silly to pass up good belay ledges and lug along more weight. Even sillier when rapping as we still needed a rap line and the rope was much longer than the chains and much too shot to hit the next station. Fun leaving v threads all over Canada (and we weren't the only ones) but not something I wouldn'd encourage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kidd Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 (edited) [i've thought about getting twins for when weight is of utmost importance.] The metolius 7.8 double rope is the same g/m as the Mammut twin at 38. I would probably go that route. I have not been that happy with the twin system - you do get the longer raps but I would prefer the less rope drag esp. in ice/alpine to any modest weight gain. The Phoenix was a compromise for me at 3g/m more weight. Just my opinion. Edited February 3, 2008 by Matt Kidd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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