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[TR] Lillooet Ice January 12-13, 2007 - various 1/12/2008


Don_Serl

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Trip: Lillooet Ice January 12-13, 2007 - various

 

Date: 1/12/2008

 

Trip Report:

lotsa activity: a dozen people from the BCMC at the Rambles (good ice), Jia Condon and a 4-some ditto, 8 people with 3 leaders from the ACC at Marble Canyon sat and various routes sunday, plus assorted other parties.

 

saturday was warmish but fine; sunday got dubiously warm out the bridge, but was still OK up the duffey.

 

out the bridge:

*** cedarvale is more hole than ice.

*** the walrus avalanched onto a pair just as the second started up; fortunately he was on steep ice and the crap shot over him; a 2nd slide came down while the leader was downclimbing, so he abandonned gear and bailed for the ground as quickly as possible - a good lesson in the hazards of climbing a south-facing route after the sun comes out. if anyone is out that way in the next week or two, i'd hope they be kind enough to retrieve the gear and return it - contact me and i can arrange to get it 'back home'.

*** i saw 3 people from washington walking up to Terzaghi falls on sat, but when we followed sunday it was much warmer, and (a) the bottom was gushed while (b) the upper sections dropped icicles, so we went away.

*** there was a party on Salmon Stakes on sat.

*** the warmth has cleaned off almost all of the ice on the rigth-hand mixed approach to Silk Degrees, which is gonna make it trickier to get on to.

*** House of Cards is getting fatter.

*** Like a Rocket is getting huge, and Millars Pillar is pretty fat too.

*** still virtually no ice on Old Dogs, but Steristrip is probably climbable.

*** there is a LOT of ice up on Jade, both right and left.

*** i heard a party walked up to Xwisten Steps, found the bottom pitch unformed, detoured around it on the left, and found the next step similarly unformed.

*** etc, etc...

 

not much new to report on the Duffey:

*** there was a car parked below Loose Lady Sunday.

*** there've been several ascents of the Tube - it's wet but very workable.

*** there's ice on Duffey's Delight, but sketchy looking.

*** ice is fully down on Last Call - climb it while it's in!

*** Three Ring Circus still looking good - ditto above!

*** lotsa ice at the Rambles.

*** Shreddie is pathetic.

*** apparently Closet Secrets is in but sketchy.

 

it was VERY warm Sunday, but cooling out again today (Monday), so the ice should not suffer.

 

there are some photos up at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22355699@N05/

 

cheers,

 

Approach Notes:

crappy snow in the Bridge; still a crust

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