tvashtarkatena Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Trip: Lillooet - Rambles Right, Marble Canyon Date: 1/7/2008 Trip Report: Lillooet Redux Jan 5-6, 2008 Boldy defying a semi-tropical forecast of zero C for Lillooet, Rob and I headed north Friday night. Rob doesn’t look like he smokes pot, he looks like he’s made of it, so the helpful Canadian border guards kindly pulled us aside after mentioned that we “looked like fine people, so we just want to make sure that you’re still fine people”. What’s with their new flak jacket SWAT-wear, anyway? Is there some kind of border hard man fashion competition going on? Rifling through the trash pile that is my car must have been a joy. “What the heck is…oh my gosh, it’s a petrified teriyaki chicken wing” Zero degrees? We rode into town to a soggy 40+ F. Puddles everywhere. Instinctively, we headed for Marble Canyon, which was pushing 39 F at midday. The ice, however, was in near perfect condition. The author on Icy BC, pitch one Rob on Icy BC, pitch one Although the ice was in good condition, not all of the routes were. Icy BC pitch two appeared to be a stout pillar with some water flowing inside. Halfway up the outside of the pillar took on a tympanic ‘bong’, so I shifted right. Near the top what appeared from below to be a small window turned out to be a body sized doorway camouflaged by a quarter inch of ice which lead to the pillar’s dark, inner secret: I was perched on a giant, thin-walled tube of ice enshrouding a very active waterfall. Fortunately, the right side was reasonably solid. The delicate part came in stepping up and off the pillar, and onto some mixed terrain, and directly over the hatchway that lead to being cry-flushed down into the netherworld. Spicy BC, pitch two. Leashless? Try headless…and, in spots, iceless. That evening we met Jeff, Tom, Alex, and Raffi for dinner at the Reynolds. I had the “everything in town” or something like that burger: two patties, fried egg, bacon, cheese. Don’t. It was like eating a cannonball. Anyway, the boys recommended Rambles Right for the following day, so, after breakfast at, surprise, the Reynolds, served up by the world’s perkiest waitress, we headed up the Duffy. Temperatures had dropped into the twenties, so the ice was a fair bit more brittle. Rob led the entrance pitch, which exhibited a wide variety of ice in a short distance and required some delicate movement. Rob, self portrait. Rambles Right. Up higher, the ice at Rambles Right, with the exception of the far left weeping chandelier, was in perfect condition. I climbed up about 15 m before I realized that I was missing a couple of 17 cm screws. I’d already placed my 22 and 17 cms, and had to rap off a couple of 13 cm V threads. Rob from the base of the route: “Why don’t you put your V thread tool in a 22 cm screw?” I usually do, but usually isn’t always good enough. Lesson learned. The author approaching the Rambles Right smorgasbord Get in there, MF! Rambles Right On the way home I took the wheel 3 km before the border. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 That U.S. border agent on the way back thought I was hot, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 nice. that rambles right is even fatter than when we were there 2 weeks ago. and is much better than rambles center, which is way lower angle and shorter than I remembered it somehow. here are some more pics from the same weekend Saturday pre-dawn hours looking for this non-existant log. Rafael leading fat Carl's Berg And on Deeping Wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Rob doesn’t look like he smokes pot, he looks like he’s made of it Its funny because its true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 Going for the thin stuff on the Deeping. Bold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Nice :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 Missed you, baby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Weekend, are you on the wagon? The 12 step program? Whazzup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 I was wondering the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 OK, so who's going to Banks this weekend? I am. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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